2012秋冬高級訂製服特別報導之四: 花樣圖騰綴秋色 百變褲裝添帥氣
FW2012 Haute Couture Trend Report


透明性感、金屬光澤和各式腰封皆有品牌擁護。(左到右:Versace、Jean Paul Gaultier、Stephane Rolland)

透明性感、金屬光澤和各式腰封皆有品牌擁護。(左到右:Versace、Jean Paul Gaultier、Stephane Rolland)

»»2012秋冬高級定制服發表華麗落幕,雖然秋冬將近,花朵卻以各式姿態,妝點禮服與發表會現場;而俐落的褲裝,在奢華材質詮釋下,也成女人晚宴首選;而蕾絲與雪紡打造的透視性感,則是讓人臉紅心跳,感受不到低溫襲擊;而金屬光澤不僅出現在服裝上,也變成各式腰帶,替女人打造完美比例的主要裝扮。

Trend 1: 花海翩翩 點綴自然浪漫
不只春天有繁花盛開,秋冬高級訂製服發表上,眾家設計師也以手法讓花瓣點綴出女性柔美的一面。立體花飾派有Dior和Chanel以精湛手藝擁護,Dior以刺繡串珠等技法,讓宛若浮雕般的小花圖騰綻放在禮服裙襬上,而Chanel則以雪紡巧妙捏縫出朵朵山茶花,或以雪紡布片寫意鋪排出花朵意象。Valentino和Bouchra Jarrar則偏好平面印花,Valentino將中國工筆畫和William Morris的花草圖騰印在薄紗、緞布上,並以亮片和金銀絲刺繡點綴出光澤變化,而Bouchra Jarrar則是單純讓線條勾勒的百合,蜿蜒在線條簡約的服裝中,營造現代感。Giambattista Valli則是集結上述之大宗,只見三色堇、茶花等各式花卉,有時幻化大片圖樣蔓延在飄逸禮服上,有時又以皺褶布片,層層堆疊出花海錦簇的錯覺,讓女人怎麼能不沉醉在這自然浪漫中。

Flora Symphony
Designers used various skills to let flowers blossom on the runway. Dior and Chanel preferred to use chiffon or embroidery to make 3D flowers while Valentino and Bouchra Jarrar manipulated 2D floral print to echo this trend. Giambattista Valli applied both methods to create a romantic garden collection.

從平面到立體,花朵成為禮服嬌媚點綴。(左到右:Giambattista Valli、Dior、Chanel)

從平面到立體,花朵成為禮服嬌媚點綴。(左到右:Giambattista Valli、Dior、Chanel)

Trend 2: 百變褲裝 可中性也可優雅
誰說只有裙裝可以襯托出高級訂製服的奢華?本季眾多品牌以紛紛以褲裝,賦予女性帥氣雍容的另一面。Armani Privé利用絲絨、厚緞的垂墜特質,讓寬版長褲擺盪出中性華美,而不顯輕浮,而Chanel則以粉色斜紋軟呢,裁剪出長褲裙的優雅。窄版長褲則出現在Dior、Givenchy、Valentino、Jean Paul Gaultier的秀上,只見Raf Simons以合身九分褲,中和上半身繁複裝飾與戲劇化輪廓,成為訂製服層次搭配新經典;而Givenchy和Jean Paul Gaultier則是藉細身長褲,凸顯女性俐落中性特質;連向來柔情萬分的Valentino,也以亮片、雪紡、黑緞裁剪長褲,讓整系列多了分罕見的率性俐落。

Variations of Trousers
Trousers were on spotlight for haute couture. Armani Privé and Chanel tailored floppy pants suits with satin and velvet. Raf Simons let crop pants appear several times under dramatic skirts or tops to reinterpret his own new look. Givenchy, Jean Paul Gaultier and even Valentino cut skinny trousers to make neutral looks.

或寬或窄的褲裝,都讓女人瀟灑帥氣。(左到右:Armani Privé、Valentino、Givenchy)

或寬或窄的褲裝,都讓女人瀟灑帥氣。(左到右:Armani Privé、Valentino、Givenchy)

Trend 3: 透視性感 若隱若現風情無限
單靠剪裁勾勒出妖嬈身材,有時不如以半透明材質欲遮還露來的性感誘人,而本季大量薄紗與蕾絲運用,即證明了此道理。Versace飄揚裙襬雖由層層薄紗打造,卻掩藏不了裙下纖腿線條,連同緊身胸衣的鏤空剪裁,一同頌揚膚色誘惑。Jean Paul Gaultier也是肉色性感擁護者,雖然蕾絲和黑紗從頭罩到腳踝,而圖案與貼身衣物也遮住重點部位,但卻只凸顯了放蕩的女體冶豔。Elie Saab、Valentino和Alexis Mabille仍是優雅代言人,任憑雪紡暴露出底下肌膚,但典雅的蕾絲紋樣、精美珠飾,或不規則線條底衣修飾,堅守女性矜持一面。Maison Martin Margiela則無視半遮掩守則,直接以各種蕾絲打造透視長褲長裙,與上身厚重裝飾形成矛盾對比。Dior也偏好此種直接的視覺衝突,以彈性半透明布料裁剪合長袖上衣,與寬大裙襬相映襯,上身露點卻無勾引意味。

Sheer Seduction
It was always more seductive when bodies were covered with transparent materials. Versace and Jean Paul Gaultier manipulated this transparent effect to create obviouse seduction while Elie Saab, Valentino and Alexis Mabille still preferred an elegant touch. Maison Martin Margiela and Dior used the light of such fabrics to contrast with heavy decoration.

薄紗若隱若現的效果,是雕塑性感的絕佳手段。(左到右:Elie Saab、Maison Martin Margiela、Jean Paul Gaultier)

薄紗若隱若現的效果,是雕塑性感的絕佳手段。(左到右:Elie Saab、Maison Martin Margiela、Jean Paul Gaultier)

Trend 4: 金屬光澤 閃爍主角級光輝 
耀眼的金屬光澤,一向是奪取舞台焦點的好手段,眾品牌也以各式素材,營造光芒四射。Jean Paul Gaultier的奢華爵士年代,金色自然不可或缺,它有時跳躍在Art Deco幾何圖案上,或者變身招搖披風,顯盡時代風華。而Armani Privé和Chanel雖以優雅為主調,但Giorgio Armani和Karl Lagerdfeld仍不忘安插幾套亮片洋裝,以細膩手工捕捉漸層亮澤感。Alexis Mabille則以漸層金屬布料,替長禮服添加少見的科技感。偏好外星生物造型的Iris van Herpen,則運用金屬質感,讓她的詭譎結構服飾未來感十足。

Metallic Glamour
Metallic glimmers always won people’s attention easily. Jean Paul Gaultier borrowed lots of gold for its Jazz Age while Armani Privé and Chanel let some sequined gowns to produce shining on the runway.

金屬光芒在舞台上十分搶眼。(左到右:Alexis Mabille、Iris van Herpen、Chanel)

金屬光芒在舞台上十分搶眼。(左到右:Alexis Mabille、Iris van Herpen、Chanel)

Trend 5: 各式腰封 勒束纖腰宣言
一只腰帶搭配不僅能強調纖細腰線,也能修正禮服比例。金屬腰帶出現在Dior、Chanel、Christophe Josse發表會上,簡潔提點出3:7完美身材;Elie Saab則將霧金皮帶變細,凸顯比例的同時也不搶禮服風采。Giambattista Valli為了呼應花園主題,金屬材質巧妙蜿蜒成立體枝芽,在腰間與禮服花海相應襯。Bouchra Jarrar和Stephane Rolland則是運用皮革與木料,打造寬版腰封繫出纖腰款款的灑落風采。

Waist Statement
Belts were ideal accessory to create perfect shape. Dior, Chanel, Christophe Josse and Elie Saab chose metallic belts to capture the sexy waistline while Bouchra Jarrar and Stephane Rolland manipulated leather and wood to create stylish waist bands.««

金屬腰帶可簡約,也可蜿蜒出枝芽造型。(左到右:Dior、Christophe Josse、Giambattista Valli)

金屬腰帶可簡約,也可蜿蜒出枝芽造型。(左到右:Dior、Christophe Josse、Giambattista Valli)

 

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