2013春夏女裝趨勢現象之最佳設計:老將失利 中生代鋒芒畢露
2013 SS Women Collection Trend: Best Designs Lied on New Comers


繁複印花與華麗飾物,給人大自然想像。(由左至右:Valentino、Dries Van Noten、Stella McCarney)

繁複印花與華麗飾物,給人大自然想像。(由左至右:Valentino、Dries Van Noten、Stella McCarney)

»»歷經四國的2013春夏女裝馬拉松終於結束,新秀、老將與中堅設計師皆使出渾身解數,豐富了春夏女裝輪廓。透過深思熟慮,evoke特別從中評選出最佳女裝設計。而許多經驗老到的設計師於本季紛紛失利落馬,反倒讓中生代設計師蓋過了光芒,而新稅設計師Christophe Kane一枝獨秀,以實力技壓設計前輩,成為本季亮眼焦點。

Ann Demeulemeester細節取勝 讓服裝充斥詩意想像
Ann Demeulemeester本季儘管依舊對色彩無感,以黑、深紫作為色彩基調,讓視覺效果顯得樸素。但設計師卻在細節處著手,以飄逸的紗質布料混搭柔順絲綢,卻束縛以皮革胸甲與腰帶,加上剛硬的鉚釘元素裝飾,詮釋蝴蝶同時擁有堅硬軀殼與華麗翅膀的模樣。並嘗試近似中國傳統戲曲服裝常見的水袖設計,模擬蝴蝶振翅及休息時刻的模樣。同時設計師企圖創造出「美麗卻令人恐懼」的女性新形象,讓服裝透露出光明與黑暗並存、美麗與死亡共生等充滿對立卻詩意的想像,昇華了服裝的藝術層次。
Ann Demeulemeester still loves the simple colors. While massively used black and dark purple as the color palette, the 2013 SS collection is lower key than other designers’. Although gave up the game on colors, the designer still got it with the details on the design. With silk, leather, and metals, the designer made the collection shine as a butterfly and stunned the audiences with its beauty. 

Ann Demeulemeester春夏服裝以蝴蝶形象為設計主軸。

Ann Demeulemeester春夏服裝以蝴蝶形象為設計主軸。

Balenciaga定義性感 打造不情色的裸露
Nicolas Ghesquière玩弄形象與服裝輪廓的功力每每讓人驚艷。繼秋冬賦予拘謹的辦公室形象前衛面貌後,Balenciaga本季重新定義性感,如胸罩式上衣搭配俐落褲裝,或是葉狀皮革拼接而成的平口小禮服佐以荊棘狀肩帶,讓女人即使大露蠻腰與纖纖長腿,卻典雅依舊。而系列女裝在布料與剪裁部分也十分有看頭,如絲、棉混紡布料製成,立體結構如流淌瀑布的荷葉邊長裙;條紋西裝布料製成的不對稱短裙;以及俐落剪裁的斜紋毛呢套裝等,讓服裝的實穿度與設計感兼具。
Balenciaga redefined sexiness by fusing lingerie and fashion designs. For example, the bra top with clean cuts on the pants design has created a sexy but elegance sense. In addition, the choice of cloth and style of cutting are also astonishing by mixing silk, cottons, and cloths. As the collection were emphasizing redefine sexiness with elegancy, the collection is rather wearable and full with wits in designs.

Balenciaga展現精湛剪裁功力。

Balenciaga展現精湛剪裁功力。

Céline扭轉風格 展現隨興與幽默氣質
或許是第3個孩子的出生改變了Phoebe Philo的荷爾蒙,繼秋冬女裝的一絲不苟,Céline本季180度大轉變,運用柔軟的絲質布料設計一系列輪廓寬鬆的裙裝與褲裝造型,隨著身體的擺動,讓服裝起了自然的浪狀皺褶,呈現一派休閒氛圍。同時以扭轉布料的手法,在領口、胸口以及腰際營造出特殊層次感的同時,袖口、裙襬處的不收邊與抽鬚處理,更加深系列服裝的隨性特質。配件部分也是本季一大亮點,擬似多個牛皮紙袋組合而成的手拿包;毛茸茸的皮草平底鞋、高跟鞋等,皆是讓人莞爾一笑的有趣設計,展現出設計師的英式幽默。
Away from 2012 AW design, Céline changed her taste to loose and softness. While the collections created amazing ruffles on the runways, the key of the design is on the collars, waist, and chest to create the sense of layers. In addition, the sleeves are also calculated carefully to enhance the atmosphere of leisure. Moreover, the accessories of 2013 SS collection also shined in Fashion Week by adding some witty and comical taste of British within them.

Céline告別一絲不苟,展現隨興優雅。

Céline告別一絲不苟,展現隨興優雅。

Christophe Kane觀點獨到 賦予前衛材質優雅輪廓
Christophe Kane本季以科學怪人為題,卻跳脫慣常思考模式,以粉嫩色系為服裝定調。同時精粹螺絲釘、防水膠帶等工業元素,前者成了服裝肩帶與裙襬上的鈕扣裝飾;後者則隨意貼於洋裝上,成為固定華麗飾物的功臣。而傳導電力不可或缺的電線,則巧妙編織成裙裝,與紗質內裡形成一剛一柔的對比。而箱型輪廓騎士外套裝扮則巧妙詮釋了科學怪人魁武身形,除了以布料拼接、拉鍊、鉚釘等元素讓詮釋屍塊拚接,表面玫瑰狀的壓紋同樣影射皮膚腐爛意象。展現設計師獨到觀點之餘,同時賦予女裝新穎輪廓。
While using Frankenstein as the theme of the collection, pink color palette has somehow became the choice of design. Adding industrial decorations to the collection, the sense of Frankenstein in fashion are all around the runways. The boxy shape, moreover, has definitely hinted out the ginormous body of Frankenstein while using mix-match technique to signified the broken body of his. The collection definitely created a new sense of fashion.

Christophe Kane將螺絲釘、防水膠帶等元素,轉變成服裝上亮眼裝飾。

Christophe Kane將螺絲釘、防水膠帶等元素,轉變成服裝上亮眼裝飾。

Dior脫胎換骨 品牌經典輪廓有新突破
在眾人期盼眼光的巨大壓力下,Raf Simons為Dior設計的首場成衣女裝系列繳出亮眼成績。除將New Look、H型輪廓、A型輪廓等Dior經典元素,與設計師的極簡美學做了完美結合。同時膽大心細於色彩搭配與布料選擇,運用大量亮黃、正紅與螢光色系布料外,還選用了橡膠質感,散發霓虹色澤的布料,創作出宛若雕塑品般的系列小禮服,以及印有玫瑰圖紋的鐘型長裙。裝飾部分除以亮片排列出細胞圖樣,為優雅服裝注入前衛元素。而在局部拼接各式打褶布料的手法,不僅維持服裝的俐落輪廓,同時提升整體造型的設計感,讓系列服裝既維持傳統,又不失新意。
With the combing of minimalism, Raf Simon gave Dior a “New Look”. Choosing carefully for the color palette and the cloths, the neon colors and rubber materials has definitely hinted out a new design of Dior. On decorations, sequins and ruffles are definitely the key points of the collection. As the collection kept its simplicity, the new elements has definitely upgraded Dior to a next level. 

Dior為經典New Look賦予摩登樣貌。

Dior為經典New Look賦予摩登樣貌。


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