2013春夏米蘭時裝週飾品特輯:包包尺寸變小了 材質多樣造型多變
Bags from Milan 2013 SS Fashion Week


2013春夏包款不乏動物皮革、印花和立體裝飾設計。(左至右為MaxMara、Emporio Armani、Bottega Veneta)

2013春夏包款不乏動物皮革、印花和立體裝飾設計。(左至右為MaxMara、Emporio Armani、Bottega Veneta)

»»米蘭2013春夏時裝週圓滿謝幕,除了完美時裝把浪漫主義發揮的淋漓盡致,伸展台上的配件更讓人眼睛為之一亮,成為時裝週不可或缺的最佳配角們。今季米蘭時裝週在配件上主打「實用」,基本經典款吃香同時,提包設計容量也是精準計算,和時裝元素走著相同調調,讓人感受到2013春夏提包花漾繽紛。

皮製多款經典皮革包展現女王風範。大器的皮件一直都是許多品牌的最愛,為了襯托2013春夏浪漫衣裝,除了基本漆皮外,豐富花紋的動物皮革藉由編織與拼接,從Gucci和Bottega Veneta的蛇皮到MaxMara的豹紋及皮草,展現奢華氛圍從未退燒。

2013春夏提包素材仍出現大量蟒蛇皮紋與豹紋花色。(左至右為Gucci、Prada、MaxMara)

2013春夏提包素材仍出現大量蟒蛇皮紋與豹紋花色。(左至右為Gucci、Prada、MaxMara)

針織包成為來年春夏主打明星之一,設計師們不只把配色玩得不亦樂乎,更是在編織技巧上發揮許多精妙巧思,使針織包活潑了起來。Dolce & Gabbana的西西里島風渲染至提包,在地民俗文化成了包款圖騰來源。而Marni和Etro也不遑多讓,複雜的編織技巧帶出春夏氣息,完美搭配衣裝主題。

從活潑的針織包可以強烈感受春夏氣息。(左至右為Dolce & Gabbana、Marni、Etro)

從活潑的針織包可以強烈感受春夏氣息。(左至右為Dolce & Gabbana、Marni、Etro)

許多設計師也運用幾何、印花和裝飾題材帶出包款多變造型。愛玩幾何拼湊的Fendi透過拼接塑造配件立體錯視效果,而Prada延續秋冬裝飾精神,唯獨更為簡約低調,從印花到立體縫紉花朵造型,讓可愛跟優雅並存,令人驚豔。Versus則是將服裝的科技素材延伸至包款設計,因高彩度色系加持,顯得非常青春洋溢,還略帶點科技運動感。

幾何、裝飾與科技感成為2013春夏重點之一。(左至右為Fendi、Prada、Versus)

幾何、裝飾與科技感成為2013春夏重點之一。(左至右為Fendi、Prada、Versus)

今季米蘭包包裝飾也與衣裝同步,流蘇、金屬與亮片三管齊下,成為包款的主要搭配。流蘇一直是點綴民族風的裝飾代表,Versace精緻蕾絲雕刻女裝配上精巧流蘇手拿包,更將波西米亞風情提升到極致,令人印象深刻。搖滾也是本季米蘭的代表元素之一,以金屬鉚釘裝飾的Salvatore Ferragamo最能代表春夏龐克風,強烈襯托女性自信美。而裝飾系列最亮眼的莫過於閃閃亮片,Giorgio Armani手拿包包覆亮片,不但吸睛,更不失經典與優雅。

包包裝飾也成為設計師們的巧思。(左至右為Versace、Salvatore Ferragamo、Giorgio Armani)

包包裝飾也成為設計師們的巧思。(左至右為Versace、Salvatore Ferragamo、Giorgio Armani)

Art Deco手拿包也是今季不可缺少的重點之一,稀奇古怪的裝置藝術佈滿全場,其中的造型冠軍莫過於Fendi方形手拿包,如兩顆骰子般的造型,小巧簡單又時尚,堪稱一絕。而Gucci透明水晶手拿包也不遑多讓,透明材質透過光線折射搭配著白色禮服,帶出華美精緻的優雅氛圍。Giorgio Armani則是運用立體裝飾幫手拿包點綴得更加優美華麗。««

創意晚宴手拿包吸睛。(左至右為Gucci、Giorgio Armani、Fendi)

創意晚宴手拿包吸睛。(左至右為Gucci、Giorgio Armani、Fendi)

»»Milan Fashion Week has successfully ended earlier this week. While we still soaked in the romance magic of Italia designs, the bags humbly reminded us that ready to wear collections were not the only players of the game, they are also the key point of the fashion week. Milan 2013 SS bags were super useful. With heavy leather and firmed knitting as the main materials, customers could bring the bags to everyday life right from the runways.

As the queen of materials in the field of bag, leathers have always shined in fashion week. Many designers were going low key this year’s that the bag styles were mainly focus on the classic types like Prada’s black leather bag. In addition to the classics, animal skins and furs were also favored by designers. From Gucci’s python to MaxMara’s jaguar pattern, the bags of 2013 SS followed the collections to the jungle.

Other than leather and animal skins, knitting also took the spot light during fashion week. With different styles and colorful palettes, the heavy tastes of diverse national sense were well expressed. Dolce & Gabbana’s Bohemian knitting bags caught most eyes during Milan Fashion Week, moreover with Marni and Etro’s knitting bags, the runway gave a strong feeling of youngness and casualness. In addition to the materials, the design styles were also followed the step of clothes design. Geometry, patterns, and techy designs were highlighted on bags. Prada’s luxurious ready to wear collection matched with the bag that emphasizing on 3D pattern. Fendi and Versus, on the other hand, also followed the design trend on runways with geometric patterns and techny designs to catch up on 2013 SS collections.

For decorations, the bags were doing the exact same designs as the ready to wear collections. Tassels, sequins, and metals were all spotted in the fashion show. Versace’s bag matched their clothes with heavy taste of Bohemia as Salvatore Ferragamo and Giorgio Armani used metals and sequins wrapped the bag into the new trend of 2013.Aside from larger size bags, clutches were also catchy. The most interesting one have to be Fendi’s dice clutch. The easy to carry squared design was cute and elegant, expressed the main theme of Fendi’s new collections. Gucci’s crystal bag, on the other hand, expressed a complete awed to the audiences. With lights reflected through the bag, the clutch was a piece of art. Giorgio Armani was using some light material to hint out the sense of quite night with its collection, complete the mood on runway. ««

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