2013秋冬女裝趨勢現象報導之彩妝:立體透氧裸妝 深邃睛彩搶鏡
2013 Fall Winter Fashion Week Roundup 1: Nude Look with Catching Eyes


裸妝潮流席捲2013秋冬四大時裝周。(左:Chloé、右:Rochas)

裸妝潮流席捲2013秋冬四大時裝周。(左:Chloé、右:Rochas)

»»拋棄過於豔氣與誇張的妝容,2013秋冬以「看似無妝勝有妝」的清新裸妝為基調,為名媛貴婦與不羈型女演繹各式精彩妝法。宛若素顏的妝容,為吸睛眼妝和特色唇妝陪襯,Valentino 的造型師Guido Palau和Burberry Prorsum的造型顧問皆不約而同地擁戴輕柔且立體自然的裸妝風潮,搭配上自然隨性風格的髮型,猶如3.1 Phillip Lim的髮型設計 Paul Hanlon所形容「由絲巾束捆的波紋秀髮」樣貌,隨手一撥,輕鬆亮出最in造型。

Trend 1 立體裸肌 裸透自然丰采
喜愛走小清新路線的氣質美女,在裸妝盛行的秋冬之際,由輕質粉底打底,加上微微珍珠光蜜粉,給人宛若無上妝卻擁有絕佳膚質的錯覺,因此上妝前的保濕功夫和整妝時的遮瑕步驟絕對不能少。猶如Burberry Prorsum 、Valentino、Balmain、Dries Van Noten和Calvin Klein的模特兒臉上,沒有多餘色彩,只見天生好氣色。「無暇肌」為上的要點,讓泛紅頰彩也悄悄褪下,要擁有Proenza Schouler、Christopher Kane、Ralph Lauren 和Victoria Beckham的瘦臉顴骨,而由深色粉底按壓輪廓線,再打亮鼻骨、眼窩下和笑肌頂點間的三角區域,柔和地強調五官輪廓,讓有光澤的立體妝容立即顯現。

Trend 1  Nude Look
Girls who love the fresh look of beauty are lucky because the nude color is in 2013 fall makeup trend. Burberry Prorsum, Valentino, Balmain, Dries Van Noten and Calvin Klein appreciated the clean faces without any color on cheeks. To have the beautiful and natural look of Proenza Schouler, Christopher Kane, Ralph Lauren and Victoria Beckham, highlighting the nasal bones and the triangle zone under eyes would be the suggestion.

本季裸妝強調突顯立體輪廓,及看似無妝的好氣色。

本季裸妝強調突顯立體輪廓,及看似無妝的好氣色。

Trend 2 粉霧唇彩 妝點微漾朱紅
跟隨立體裸妝路線,唇上要隱藏的不只是小斑或唇紋,更要技巧地將唇線消去,利用打上粉底的方式,模糊唇瓣與唇週的界線。可別急著上油亮亮的嘟嘴唇蜜,粉霧質感唇妝才是本季主打。建議先塗上幾近於膚色的唇膏,上色後再以面紙輕壓拭去油光,若想呈現極致霧感效果,可沾取少許透明蜜粉輕刷唇面,就大功告成。Giles、Proenza Schouler 、Lanvin一派要裸就裸得徹底,只讓少許自然唇色映著霧光透出,Gucci和Versace添點清淡橙彩襯托眼妝,Chanel的淺色淡唇則在中央浮現嫣紅。或是學學Dior、Prada和Marni鋪上桃紅色彩,猶如一抹胭脂點在唇間的不經意。

Trend 2  Misted Lips
Juicy lips were out in winter 2013 as misted lips were welcomed on the runway. To create the wonderful lip makeup, blurring the labial line is strongly recommended. As Giles, Proenza Schouler and Lanvin chose to be completely nude on lips, Gucci and Versace and Chanel added slight pink color. The one dot on lips from Dior, Prada and Marni’s makeup would be also a good choice to make your lips shining.

無論是裸色系或是紅唇系,唇彩皆強調淡唇線的印象暈染風格。

無論是裸色系或是紅唇系,唇彩皆強調淡唇線的印象暈染風格。

Trend 3 紫紅靚唇 低調奢華立現
若感覺裸色口味過於清淡,想抬升名媛貴婦氣勢,可以飽和深色唇彩hold住全場,無論是火熱紅唇、高貴紫紅,或是低調褐色,皆要把握住暗色系的重點,彩度較高的顏色在來年有幸再相會。由於顏色較深,選擇適合自己風格和造型的唇色就顯得重要。Bottega Veneta、Dolce & Gabbana、Louis Vuitton經典紅唇為復古風華美女帶出妖嬈韻味。營造奢華貴氣的紫紅色,在Vera Wang和Fendi唇上展現大器風範,Lanvin更以越接近唇口、顏色越深的漸層手法,營造宛如夜裡沾露玫瑰花瓣般,豔而不俗。3.1 Phillip Lim獨特的褐紅帶金唇色,也值得喜愛嘗新的美女一試。

Trend 3  Dark Glamour
The other trend for makeup in 2013 winter was dark-colored lips. No matter red, purple or brown, the key must turn to darker tone. The variety of colors from Bottega Veneta, Dolce & Gabbana, Louis Vuitton, Vera Wang and Fendi suggested all the best suggestion for the in-trend colors.

深色唇系為秋冬不敗經典趨勢,各色皆有獨特魅力。

深色唇系為秋冬不敗經典趨勢,各色皆有獨特魅力。

Trend 4 冷色媚眼 打造冰山妝感
慣於遊戲人間的型女們,在裸妝的陪襯下,也絕不能少了勾魂眼妝。五彩繽紛已被遺留在去年冬天,今年改走黑、棕、靛藍、銀等彩度較低的眼影,加強各式多元妝法,展現屬於基本色調的點睛魅力。Roberto Cavalli、Marc Jacobs、Donna Karan、Jason Wu的煙燻大眼為獵豔基本款,小燻至眼下或大燻到眉骨,都各有魅力。眼影對立雙色如Michael Kors的偏重眼尾演出,Giorgio Armani只在眼頭及眼尾沾上色的技巧也極具創意,讓深邃貓眼更為挑逗勾魂,Missoni和Altuzarra則以上下雙色眼彩突顯銳利雙眸。Thakoon 的點金箔及Chanel的銀亮片進階版就更加吸睛。

Trend 4  Murky Eyes
All the colorful lids were left in last year. For fall in 2013, black, brown and dark blue dominated the makeup trend on eyes. The smoky eyes from Roberto Cavalli, Marc Jacobs, Donna Karan, Jason Wu are the basic. While Michael Kors, Missoni and Altuzarra’s double colors allured everyone’s attention, Thakoon and Chanelare’s gold and silver decoration were even more eye-catching.

眼妝部分由冷色調領軍,呼應秋冬冰寒氛圍。

眼妝部分由冷色調領軍,呼應秋冬冰寒氛圍。

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