2015早秋駝色當道 點綴皮草豹紋針織衫
2015 Pre-Fall Camel Color Trend in Coats and Knitwear


2015早秋皮草持續大流行。(由左至右:Versace、Givenchy、Fendi)

2015早秋皮草持續大流行。(由左至右:Versace、Givenchy、Fendi)

»»在2015秋冬男裝週如火如荼展開時,還要翻天蓋地的歸納女裝早秋系列,以及正進入春夏新款換季找出流行趨勢的蛛絲馬跡,已經逐步成為時尚媒體的工作常態。本季早秋流行,延續前幾季的皮草狂熱,輕易可見毛絨絨的奢華大衣,或皮草的局部點綴。至於近來強勢的針織面料,設計師則主張連身或成套的穿搭法則。裝飾元素部分,則有格紋、豹紋強勢回歸。至於顏色,就先別提Pantone預測的Marsala紅,因為駝色才是早秋的流行主色。

皮草熱潮 早秋持續發燒
2014年強勢發燒的皮草熱潮,似乎還未見退燒,即使是秋乾氣爽的早秋季節,還是被各式各樣的皮草元素所充斥,如Versace以藍黑色調拼接而成的毛茸茸夾克,以及Kenzo在外套帽子外緣所做的點綴等等。同時也不能錯過一系列奢華的大衣作品,包含Givenchy展現皮質原色的翻領大衣,Giorgio Armani低調的純黑設計,或是Emilio Pucci搶眼的桃紅色羊毛大衣作品。另外,主打皮草的Fendi,除了推出大衣、夾克等基本單品,還將備受歡迎的毛怪設計,轉化成服裝上的吸睛裝飾,企圖以可愛風格,擄獲女人的心。

皮草熱潮仍未退燒,充斥2015早秋設計。(由左至右:Kenzo、Giorgio Armani、Emilio Pucci)

皮草熱潮仍未退燒,充斥2015早秋設計。(由左至右:Kenzo、Giorgio Armani、Emilio Pucci)

連身針織 秋天最In造型
針織部分,除了散見的大衣、外套等單品,連身洋裝或是純色套裝,也成為設計師不約而同的主張。Chanel就推出純白色的針織連身褲,搭配華麗項鍊、手環,詮釋設計師對於奧地利的歷史想像。Stella McCartney與Calvin Klein則推成套的裙裝,差別只在前者打造不對稱衣襬提升設計感,後者則以短版上衣凸顯露肚性感。而Emilio Pucci則為貼身的針織造型染上繽紛的七彩條紋,針織擅長的Missoni,則編織出一系列色彩漸變的淑女洋裝,讓一身針織,成為今年秋季的時尚代表。

成套或連身的針織衫,成為2015早秋強打。(由左至右:Stella McCartney、Calvin Klein、Chane)

成套或連身的針織衫,成為2015早秋強打。(由左至右:Stella McCartney、Calvin Klein、Chane)

格紋印花 搶盡早秋鋒頭
至於裝飾元素上,格紋在2015早秋搶盡了鋒頭。回憶Dior在東京舉辦的大秀,一件件印有棋盤格紋的洋裝或大衣,就在片片雪花的襯托下,成為方形伸展台上的主角。Bottega Veneta也選擇規律簡單的棋盤格紋,但以較小的間距,設計出一系列鉛筆裙造型。Gucci一系列飄逸洋裝,則透過線條的交疊,賦予菱格紋更多元的樣貌。同時,Dsquared²取材經典蘇格蘭格紋,設計緞面蓬裙小洋裝。同樣的蘇格蘭格紋到了Roland Mouret手下,除了被等比放大,還多了不一樣的粉蠟筆質感,大大豐富格紋樣貌。

格紋在2015早秋占盡風頭。(由左至右:Dior、Gucci、Bottega Veneta)

格紋在2015早秋占盡風頭。(由左至右:Dior、Gucci、Bottega Veneta)

狂野豹紋 回歸時尚中心
經典豹紋元素,也在2015早秋回歸時尚中心。包含Diane von Furstenberg三件式鉛筆裙裝;Burberry Prorsum為清純的純白蕾絲洋裝,混搭狂野豹紋大衣造型;Valentino透過異材質拼接技巧,設計一系列斗篷與外套,以及Hervé Léger by Max Azria繡上條紋縫線的貼身迷你裙洋裝等等。其中最痴狂的,非Lanvin莫屬,從大衣、荷葉邊長裙,到一系列手拿包、長靴等配件,都染上自然的花豹紋路,讓人無法忽視這波豹紋流行趨勢。

豹紋回歸,成為’2015早秋流行元素。(由左至右:Diane von Furstenberg、Lanvin、Valentino)

豹紋回歸,成為’2015早秋流行元素。(由左至右:Diane von Furstenberg、Lanvin、Valentino)

駝色當道 豐富早秋色彩
最後,2015早秋服裝皆染上一層溫潤的駝色。Chloé軍裝風格的高腰褲是駝色;J.W. Anderson縫上特殊陶瓷鈕扣的大衣是駝色;3.1 Phillip Lim以不收邊營造流蘇裝飾的長版背心外套是駝色,甚至Alexander Wang的抓皺洋裝、網襪搭配尖頭高跟鞋造型,也從頭到腳只有一個駝色。不只如此,本季你還可以買到Michael Kors 的駝色皮革風衣、Jason Wu駝色百褶洋裝,以及Oscar de la Renta推出的駝色披風等等,讓這假借駱駝皮毛為名的經典色彩,豐富時尚女人的秋季生活。««

駝色成為2015早秋強勢色彩。(由左至右:Michael Kors、J.W. Anderson、Alexander Wang)

駝色成為2015早秋強勢色彩。(由左至右:Michael Kors、J.W. Anderson、Alexander Wang)

»»While the men’s Fall Winter collection is now being shown, pre-fall womenswear is also going strong, and there are trends that are definitely going to be seen at the end of the year. Fur has been on the radar since 2014, and shows no sign of disappearing, we see Versace collaging black and blue fur on their jackets, and Kenzo added fur lining to their designs. Givenchy opted for raw fur in an overturned collar jacket, and Armani went for a low-key black fur color. Emiio Pucci gave us a bright red fur coat which caught our eye, and Fendi went for all the fur basics you could imagine, coat, vests, etc.

Knitwear was also a strong trend, and we see white knitted jumpsuits at Chanel, and Stella McCartney and Clavin Klein stayed true to their minimalism and putout knitted maxi dresses. Emilio Pucci and Missoni were colorful in their striped knitted dresses, and it seems knitwear is something to invest in this fall and winter.

Checkered patterns could be seen at Dior, and Bottege Veneta also choose to emblem checkers on their A line dresses. While Gucci incorporated checkers in to grid-like patterns, Dsquared² and Roland Mouret went for the classic Tartan.

Surprisingly, leopard prints are here to stay. Diane von Furstenberg used them on her dresses; Burberry Prorsum paired a white dress with a leapoard print coat; Valentino juxtaposed leopard with plenty of other materials in their series of capes and jackets, and Hervé Léger by Max Azria gave us leopard print miniskirts. Lanvin, however managed to out win everyone by using the print on almost everything from the clothes to the handbag and even the shoes.

Colorwise, contrary to the Pantone predictions of Masala, camel was the color frequented the most on the catwalk. Chloe’s was camel colored military style jackets; J.W. Anderson gave us camel colored oats; 3.1 Phillip Lim had a camel vest, while Alexander Wang gave us a full-fledged camel look complete from head to toe. Michael Kors put out trench coats, while Jason Wu designed pleated dresses in camel, and Oscar de la Renta included a camel cape in their collection. This just shows us how this classical color is biggest color of our Fall Winter wardrobe.««

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