2015春夏高級訂製服報導之四:極簡強勢花卉盛開 羽毛裝飾New Look輪廓
SS2015 Haute Couture Trend Report


2015春夏高訂強勢的極簡與New Look熱潮,都能在Dior伸展台上找到。

2015春夏高訂強勢的極簡與New Look熱潮,都能在Dior伸展台上找到。

»»壟罩在恐怖攻擊陰影下的巴黎,因2015春夏高訂時裝週的舉辦,帶來一絲振奮。一如近來高級訂製服的新時尚精神,極簡輪廓仍舊根深蒂固於設計師的腦中。與其他充斥羽毛、花卉等裝飾,以及呈現出New Look輪廓的華麗晚禮服,形成強烈對比。再加上一系列連身褲裝的推出,反映了運動熱潮入侵高訂伸展台的痕跡,讓這傳承百年歷史的時尚舞台,充斥越來越多創意精神。

Trend 1 極簡主義 深根高訂舞台
眾所注目,由John Galliano主導的Maison Margiela 2015春夏高訂,推出了一系列帶有中山裝領口的大衣以及洋裝,不僅是設計師對這比利時品牌設計精神的提倡,同時也為本季巴黎高訂的極簡風潮揭開序幕。如首日登場的Versace,就推出一系列剪裁俐落的喇叭褲裝,透過不對稱領口設計,稍稍賣弄性感。Armani Privé俐落的西裝造型,則是透過上衣的竹子印花與腰際的綁帶,融入日本元素。另外,Bouchra Jarrar運用抓皺技巧豐富極簡洋裝輪廓。Jean Paul Gaultier則是透過不對稱剪裁,將西裝、裙裝;長袖、背心等極端主題融合,透過簡單的服裝線條,討論嚴肅的性別議題。

Trend 1 Minimalism Trends in Couture
Minimal designs can be seen at the block colored tailored coats with Mandarin collars at Maison Margiela; Atelier Verasce also presented quite a minimal collection for couture with monochrome looks; Armani Prive presented minimalism in the form of straight tailored suit jackets and Jean Paul Gaultier juxtaposed the silhouttes of suits, dresses, vest together and giving up on flashy embellishments.

2015春夏高訂,極簡風仍未缺席。(由左至右:Maison Margiela、Armani Privé、Versace)

2015春夏高訂,極簡風仍未缺席。(由左至右:Maison Margiela、Armani Privé、Versace)

Trend 2 強勢裝飾 花卉盛開伸展台
花卉裝飾,持續蟬聯高級訂製服的流行趨勢。在Chanel 2015春夏高訂伸展台上,唯獨不缺的就是花。除了讓人大開眼界,結合紙雕與精密器械搭造的熱帶花園作為背景。工坊師傅的好手藝,也透過裝飾元素與各式面料,在服裝上開花、爭豔。Viktor & Rolf同樣以花卉貫串整場秀,透過印花與立體裝飾的結合,打造一系列蓬裙洋裝,誇張的立體輪廓與不對稱的創意,則透露設計師一貫的實驗精神。同樣愛花成痴的還有Giambattista Valli,從大器的玫瑰到精巧的雛菊,都躍然成為服裝上吸睛的部分。加上Jean Paul Gaultier壓軸禮服上,印襯Niomi Campbell巧克力膚色的純白蘭花,以及Valentino透露民族風情的地毯式印花與精美刺繡,讓人見識到,在時尚伸展台上,任何花都能盡情綻放。

Trend 2 Blooming Brights Everywhere in Sight
Florals are a must for any Spring Summer collection, and this year was no exception with the mechanical blooms that wowed everyone at Chanel, to the over-zealous flowers that seemed to be everywhere at Viktor & Rolf; we also have Giambattista Valli who applied almost every couture technique to adding flowers and floral patterns to his design, and Jean Paul Gaultier even transformed Naomi Campbell into a bouquet, this is sure the season to bloom bright.

花卉再度成為2015春夏高訂流行。(由左至右:Valentino、Chanel、Viktor & Rolf)

花卉再度成為2015春夏高訂流行。(由左至右:Valentino、Chanel、Viktor & Rolf)

Trend 3 皮草出局 羽毛佔領春夏高訂
出人意料的,市場越來越龐大的皮草,居然在本季高訂舞台失利,取而代之的,是同樣珍貴的各式羽毛。Armani Privé就將精緻的千萬根水藍色羽毛,滿滿鋪設於整件平口晚禮服,一如絨毛娃娃蓬鬆。Ulyana Sergeenko的白色羽毛披風,則有水藍、鮮紅顏色點綴,儘管異常華麗,卻不敵羽毛頭巾,以及公雞提包來的吸睛。至於維持一貫設計輪廓的Elie Saab,則是透過羽毛的點綴,將華麗層級向上提升。不同於Chanel、Maison Margiela推出的羽毛帽飾,Alexis Mabille 則是將羽毛固定於模特兒的髮梢,隨著行走之際,自然飄逸。

Trend 3 Feather for Fur
Armani Prive showed how luxurious feathers could be with their light-blue dress made from thousands of feathers stitched together. Ulyana Sergeenko also presented a white feathered cape, with hints of blue and red showing, and Ellie Saab added some texture to his signature red-carpet gowns by using feathers, a visually stunning effort. Alexis Mabille added to this trend by pinning feathers to the hair of his models, leaving them to sway as they sashayed down the catwalk, creating a visual arc.

珍貴羽毛取代皮草,成為2015春夏高訂強勢元素。(由左至右:Armani Privé、Ulyana Sergeenko、Elie Saab)

珍貴羽毛取代皮草,成為2015春夏高訂強勢元素。(由左至右:Armani Privé、Ulyana Sergeenko、Elie Saab)

Trend 4 纖腰豐臀 New Look風潮回歸
至於輪廓,纖腰豐臀的New Look剪裁成為主導,而這自然是Dior的強項,在創意總監Raf Simons的詮釋下,系列蓬裙禮服,無論維持極簡風格,抑或覆滿耀眼的裝飾元素,都維持一個輪廓。其中,看似簡單的百褶裙,可是大大考驗工坊師傅的手藝,讓簡單卻不簡單的服裝,成為Dior高訂的全新主張。Ulyana Sergeenko運用幾何色塊增添風味的禮服作品,同樣造型俐落卻不失細節。相比之下,Giambattista Valli與Elie Saab,則是透過蕾絲、烏干紗的面料堆疊,以及精緻細膩的裝飾元素,賦予New Look輪廓截然不同的繁複之美。至於Jean Paul Gaultier,則提出「半個New Look」概念,只在一側弓起襯裙結構,讓人見識時尚頑童的新意。

Trend 4 Feminie with the New Look
Couture is for ladies, no doubt and we see Raf Simons going back to what Dior did best, the feminine New Look. Giambattista Valli and Elie Saab all designed New Look silhouettes in different material and textures, while Jean Paul Gaultier hacked half of the New Look in his effort to be playful.

New Look輪廓風潮,蔓延2015春夏高訂。(由左至右:Giambattista Valli、Dior、Jean Paul Gaultier)

New Look輪廓風潮,蔓延2015春夏高訂。(由左至右:Giambattista Valli、Dior、Jean Paul Gaultier)

Trend 5 連身褲裝 新一波流行熱潮
最後,雖然高訂伸展台出現褲裝不是什麼新鮮事,但半數品牌不約而同推出連身褲卻十分稀罕。如Jean Paul Gaultier就讓1990年代超模Suzanne von Aichinger,換上V領連身褲搭配披風的霸氣造型。Dior則以David Bowie為靈感,推出一系列如緊身衣般貼身的連身褲,搭配色澤繽紛的幾何印花,甚至是炫目的亮片,展現搖滾明星式的張狂特質。再加上Versace融合削肩領口與喇叭褲口的設計、Schiaparelli印上華麗復古鏡圖騰的水藍色作品,還有Alexis Mabille以螢光粉紅面料打造的寬肩連身褲,讓2015春夏高訂,興起一波連身褲熱潮。

Trend 5 Pantsuits are a Must Have
Jean Paul Gaultier sent 90s supermodel Suzanne von Aichinger down the catwalk in a V-necked pantsuit, and Dior went to the pantsuits of David Bowie wore in the 70s, while Versace gave us a more modern touch with off the shoulder and flared pants for her pantsuit. Schiaparelli designed a stunning royal blue number and Alexis Mabille also experiemented in neon pink, giving us plenty of reasons to tryout the pantsuit this season.««

2015春夏高訂興起一波連身褲熱潮。(由左至右:Schiaparelli、Versace、Dior)

2015春夏高訂興起一波連身褲熱潮。(由左至右:Schiaparelli、Versace、Dior)

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