2016早春流行趨勢 糖果色遇見幾何印花
2016 Cruise Trends: Pastel Colors and Geometric Prints


Stella McCartney 2016早春發表,現場眾星雲集。(由左至右:Amber Valletta、Maggie Gyllenhaal、Alicia Keys、Stella McCartney、Liv Tyler、St. Vincent、Cara Delevingne、Miranda Kerr)

Stella McCartney 2016早春發表,現場眾星雲集。(由左至右:Amber Valletta、Maggie Gyllenhaal、Alicia Keys、Stella McCartney、Liv Tyler、St. Vincent、Cara Delevingne、Miranda Kerr)

»»今年,時尚圈龍頭品牌Chanel、Louis Vuitton與Dior,分別前往首爾、加州棕櫚泉與法國南部海岸,舉辦2016早春大秀。再加上Stella McCartney洋溢古巴風情的花園派對,以及不約而同走上紐約街頭,展演早春新裝的Gucci與Marc Jacobs。不難發現,我們正經歷早春系列蓬勃發展的轉捩點。從各個品牌爭相推出早春系列的初始,再到如今早春大秀與發表活動成為許多品牌的例行規劃,這個過程不過短短3、4年,讓人驚訝於早春市場的爆炸性發展。不過,重要性雖然開始與春夏與秋冬系列比肩,但相較於這兩個季度對於創意與概念的偏重,2016早春系列還是維持一貫的實穿至上原則。

在2016早春穿大衣或皮草,對設計師來說可是正常不過的事。(由左至右:Proenza Schouler、The Row、Jason Wu)

在2016早春穿大衣或皮草,對設計師來說可是正常不過的事。(由左至右:Proenza Schouler、The Row、Jason Wu)

Trend 1  禦寒大衣 早春持續發燒
綜覽2016早春設計,各式足以抵禦風雪的大衣,成為設計師仍沉醉於秋冬蕭瑟的證據。甫獲得CFDA最佳女裝設計大獎的The Row,推出長及腳踝的翻領大衣,簡單的輪廓與低調色澤,切合品牌強調的極簡與舒適性。Marc Jacobs則為毛呢大衣,以繽紛彩寶規劃出碎花與幾何圖騰。此外,不要驚訝於那一系列毛茸茸的外套,它們確確實實就是皮草。從Max Mara短毛牛皮大衣,到Gucci雙材質的拼接作品。或是Jason Wu的純色運用,到Fendi、Proenza Schouler所推出,玩轉各式印花的手法,讓早春皮草大衣的多樣性,不亞於秋冬。
Trend 1  Spring Coats Against the Cold
What is Spring without a dash of cold? The Row are famous for their ankle length minimal coats, color blocked in all sorts of low-key color palettes. Marc Jacobs went for colorful tweed in graphic patterns, Gucci with patched contrasting textiles, the colorful designs of Fendi, Proenza Schouler, and the color-blocking of Jason Wu, all give us plenty of options for staying warm.

厚重大衣與皮草,成為2016早春重點單品。(由左至右:Fendi、Marc Jacobs、Gucci)

厚重大衣與皮草,成為2016早春重點單品。(由左至右:Fendi、Marc Jacobs、Gucci)

Trend 2   寬管褲裝 風格各異其趣
寬管褲則是另一項秋冬趨勢的遺留,2016早春系列,Balenciaga強調了一種優雅的褲裝造型,讓荷葉邊衣擺輪廓的上衣,與高腰寬管褲配套。Giorgio Armani則為透明的薄紗上衣,搭配7分褲長設計,提供一種較為清涼、充滿度假氣息的選擇。Donna Karan為寬管褲造型注入日本情調,為上衣經營出和服輪廓。Diane von Furstenberg與Etro則雙雙維持了對印花的喜愛,前者為喇叭褲裝點綴碎花,透露1980年代的阿哥哥情調。後者則透過緹花與印花面料的混搭,呈現百花齊放的繽紛視覺效果。
Trend 2  Wide Legged Silhouttes
Another trend that is filtered through the Autumn Winter designs is the wide legged trouser. From Balenciaga to Griorgiao Armani, they all had wide legged designs in forms of pant suits and culottes. Donna Karan’s took cue from Japanese wear, while DvF and Etro took pride in smothering their designs in flowery pritns.

寬管褲從2015秋冬,持續流行到2016早春。(由左至右:Balenciaga、Diane von Furstenberg、Giorgio Armani)

寬管褲從2015秋冬,持續流行到2016早春。(由左至右:Balenciaga、Diane von Furstenberg、Giorgio Armani)

Trend 3   面料拼接 增加設計層次
而各種面料的實驗性組合,成為2016早春非常有趣的設計重點。Louis Vuitton形似甲冑的短版上衣,就將一般絲質面料、亮片布料與皮革接合,成就十分創新的輪廓。Dior選擇在網狀面料下功夫,不只將網狀洋裝以皮草點綴,還透過層疊的縫合增加服裝的層次質感。Burberry Prorsum浪漫的蕾絲洋裝,透過網狀與編織面料的拼接,注入個性。Versace則是在綢緞、蕾絲與各式薄透面料的運籌帷幄之間,將運動、睡衣、休閒、街頭等各式風格元素,巧妙融合於一體。
Trend 3  Medley of Textures and Materials
Further experimentation with all sorts of different and contrasting materials can be seen in the Cruise collections. Louis Vuitton with their cropped mail suit tops, was a conjunct of metallic fabrics with silky materials. Dior went with meshed fabrics, and layered them against another, while Burberry used romantic lace, and mesh and knitted fabrics, a clash of attitude. Versace used silks and lace and crossed over between sportswear, casualwear, and streetwear.

各式面料的拼接,成為2016早春重點趨勢。(由左至右:Burberry Prorsum、Louis Vuitton、Dior)

各式面料的拼接,成為2016早春重點趨勢。(由左至右:Burberry Prorsum、Louis Vuitton、Dior)


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