2016春夏高級訂製服報導之一:Dior設計團隊強調經典 Giuabattista Valli重現巴黎花都
SS20156 Haute Couture: A Line Dior and Floral Giuabattista Valli


「魚子醬晚禮服,耶路撒冷的朝鮮薊、絲質小甜蘿蔔。」這不是什麼沒頭沒腦的菜單,而是Schiaparelli對本季高訂的註解。接任Schiaparelli設計總監大位,來到第二季的Bertrand Guyon表示,高訂就是要從平凡中創造不平凡,因此,他以Salvador Dalí的畫作「盛大晚宴」(Les Dîners de Gala)為靈感,讓洋蔥、番茄、南瓜等食材,以刺繡的方式,呈現在禮服上,甚至致敬1937年Dalí及Schiaparelli所創造的龍蝦洋裝,整場秀上充滿各式蔬菜及水果,不只眼睛,甚至連胃都有了飽足感。Alexis Mabille則利用單純的黑與白,致敬好萊塢的黃金時代,以及當時女星所呈現永垂不朽的美。設計師表示,不需要過多的顏色,用最簡單的姿態,來呈現自身散發出的美,無論什麼年紀,都有愛自己的權利。««

Schiaparelli將食材化為刺繡,展現在禮服上(左及中);Alexis Mabille(右)則回歸原點,利用黑白兩色,襯托女性的美。

Schiaparelli將食材化為刺繡,展現在禮服上(左及中);Alexis Mabille(右)則回歸原點,利用黑白兩色,襯托女性的美。

»»The first day of Haute Couture Week, Dior and Atelier Versace seem to bring couture to real life with styles that people can wear in their daily life not just for red carpets. After the leave of Raf Simons, the designer team of Serge Ruffieux and Lucie Meier presented their first couture collection. French elegance and retro silhouette appeared during the show while the bee logo became accessories on the silk. Atelier Versace, on the other hand, brings the daily style to couture collection with athletic style. Based on her personal experience, Donatella Versace creates silhouette with racer necklines and sport leggings. With new techniques implanted, the designed team designed couture with neon colors and shoe-lace-liked lines on dresses wore by too models like Rosie Huntington-Whiteley and Natasha Poly. 

Even born in Rome, Giuabattista Valli still calls Paris his home for 18 years. In order to bring the happy atmosphere back to the city after the attack, he uses floral elements inspired by four gardens includes Bagatelle, Palais-Royal, Luxembourg and Tuileries, combined with Les Soeurs de Napoléon exhibition in 2013 to design dress with Empire Silhouette. With silk and 3D embroideries, he showed the elegance of women. Ralph & Rosso uses the same elements as well in retro silhouette of dress. Peonies and tulips, ivy leaves and roses sewed on white dresses and lingerie. The most eye-catching one is the bridal dress with silver bullion, pearls and crystals.

“Gown in caviar, Jerusalem artichokes and radish silk cigaline.” This ain’t a menu but the description of Schiaparelli couture this season. Inspired by Les Dîners de Gala by Salvador Dalí, food and fruits became embroideries on dresses. There’s even a dress tributes to the lobster dress in 1937. As for Alexis Mabille, the designer returns to black and white this season to press the nature beauty of women. ««

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