Donna Karan版圖大重組 放手才是明智決定
The Rise and Fall of Donna Karan's Fashion Empire


讓Donna Karan一炮而紅的黑色7 Easy Pieces系列。

讓Donna Karan一炮而紅的黑色7 Easy Pieces系列。

隨後,又在1992年邀請Peter Lindbergh拍攝系列廣告「In Women We Trust」,打出職場自信女口號,讓Rosemary McGrotha詮釋女性總統,周邊全圍繞一堆男性事務官,一面隱喻Donna Karan的時尚王國,一面流露品牌所亟欲締造的強悍又有摩登魅力的女人形象。然而版圖支線愈拓愈廣,以及全球拓點需求,相對需要更龐大資金進入,2001年時,LVMH最後決定花1億9千5百萬美金投資Donna Karan所創立的母公司Donna Karan International,同時以4億5千萬美金購買旗下品牌相關授權與交叉持股,設計師則保有原來職務,LVMH願意積極協助主牌Donna Karan拓點,但對非High Fashion的DKNY有些興趣缺缺。

1992年攝影師Peter Lindbergh以女性總統為題材,拍攝Donna Karan系列廣告「In Women We Trust」,因強調女性獨立自主能力,得到廣大迴響。

1992年攝影師Peter Lindbergh以女性總統為題材,拍攝Donna Karan系列廣告「In Women We Trust」,因強調女性獨立自主能力,得到廣大迴響。

至於副牌DKNY,儘管走年輕休閒路線,可它最後竟然是Donna Karan旗下最暢銷的牌子,現在高端時尚伸展台更狂襲運動休閒風尚,潮牌當道,這是LVMH可能當初也始料未及,反觀當初的金雞母Donna Karan表現愈趨平淡,呈現一灘死水窘境。另外,LVMH為何對設計師冷淡,扣除績效未達標,一說當初購買品牌股權,是集團失算,旗下投資的子公司財務產權界線劃分曖昧,跟Calvin Klein拋售品牌情況雷同,導致表面看似划得來的生意,骨子裡收的爛攤也不少,外界更直接推測設計師Donna Karan最後與阿諾協商要求更多資源未果,是造成雙方決裂主因,講來講去都是為了數字。

DKNY的休閒年輕路線,在近來潮牌當道,業績逐漸上揚,賣得比主牌還好,圖為2015秋冬系列。

DKNY的休閒年輕路線,在近來潮牌當道,業績逐漸上揚,賣得比主牌還好,圖為2015秋冬系列。

如今Donna以專心投入和老公創辦的基金會為由,請求離去,時機上,算得剛好,離開,對雙方皆有好處。但設計師這一走,原來的同名主牌面臨被清算命運,根據媒體報導紐約勞工部門已經提出警告,預測品牌到明年1月為止將會出現裁員潮,恐影響勞工權益。關店也似乎箭在弦上,縱使LVMH官方宣布Donna Karan International共有1400位員工,在Donna Karan品牌工作者,部分會轉移到DKNY部門,但至少會裁掉70名同仁,LVMH極有可能專心整合DKNY,希望這本不被看好的小草,開出燦爛花朵。面對設計師離開自己辛苦創建的品牌,轉由他人管理,其實大有人在,Ann Demeulemeester也是其中之一,只能說家家有本難唸的經,我們都在看離開後的Donna Karan又會有何作為。現在,先搶購最後一季的Donna Karan吧,畢竟之後可能就再也買不到了,美國百貨如Bloomingdale’s等已經在盤算廣告檔期,準備趁機搶市。««

百貨公司線打算推出搶最後一季Donna Karan,還斷言這是品牌有史以來精采創作之一,好刺激銷售。

百貨公司線打算推出搶最後一季Donna Karan,還斷言這是品牌有史以來精采創作之一,好刺激銷售。

»»In a major shift for American fashion, Donna Karan, the 66-year-old founder and chief designer of Donna Karan International, a brand that defined the way American working women dressed for decades, announced that she was leaving the helm of the house that bears her name. 

In 1985, Donna Karan—a former Anne Klein designer—launched a collection based on what she called her “Seven Easy Pieces:” a flattering, flexible, and interchangeable set of items women could wear for day or night, with that bodysuit as its base layer.

Karan then drew on the recognition of her Donna Karan New York collection to launch a second line dubbed ‘DKNY’ in 1989. That was the beginning of DKNY, which was founded in 1989 to appeal to the contemporary market and her daughter, Gabby. Designed to be fast fashion with an urban mind-set, DKNY went on to launch a plethora of labels, such as DKNY Jeans, DKNY Active, DKNY Underwear and DKNY Kids. Both DKNY and Donna Karan Collection became well-known for their groundbreaking ad campaigns.

She also tapped Peter Lindbergh in 1992 for the “In Women We Trust” campaign, and that led to the power suit losing its luster, championing a different kind of feminine empowerment. In 2001, LVMH Moët Hennessey Louis Vuitton paid $243 million for all outstanding shares in DKI, plus $400 million for Gabrielle Studio Inc., the license of the Donna Karan trademarks. Since announcing that Donna Karan would be leaving, DKI has said it would not seek a successor for Karan as chief designer of Donna Karan Collection and will suspend that brand’s runway shows and collections for now. The company plans to reorganize its teams and structure in order to substantially increase its focus on the DKNY brand.««

 

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