Gabriele Colangelo 淌流藝術基因 翻掌時裝設計
Designer of the Week: Gabriele Colangelo


即便是2013秋冬,Gabriele Colangelo仍不改藝文氣息,再次將苗頭相準Laurent Segretier的影像藝術,利用科技維碼處理分割影像所塑造的迷幻氛圍,Gabriele Colangelo如法炮製地研發布料素材。細看Gabriele Colangelo女裝輪廓很簡潔有力,不太愛用蕾絲雕琢繁複華麗美感,反而愛鑽研織品的可能性,運用經典結構,微微點綴些許繞褶增加層次效果,奢華簡中求。

無論是2013早春(左)或2013秋冬(中與右),Gabriele Colangelo不忘在簡約俐落的線條中,注入藝術文學氣息,而且致力挖掘織品研發的各種可能。

無論是2013早春(左)或2013秋冬(中與右),Gabriele Colangelo不忘在簡約俐落的線條中,注入藝術文學氣息,而且致力挖掘織品研發的各種可能。

也或許是該緣故,讓Gabriele Colangelo接下義大利老牌Genny設計總監職務,不過畢竟Genny曾在Gianni Versace操盤下風光一時,要如何讓經典老牌回春,著實考驗著設計師本人,但老天爺真的很眷顧他,Gabriele Colangelo品牌經理恰好在Genny工作20年有餘,就像是本活歷史一樣,幫Gabriele Colangelo可多深入了解Genny過往點滴,現在Genny正慢慢走出新風格,如同Gabriele Colangelo搖擺於時尚與藝術之間,找到自己的平衡點。««

左起Genny 2013秋冬、2013春夏與2012秋冬系列。

左起Genny 2013秋冬、2013春夏與2012秋冬系列。

»»When we say, “it runs in your blood”, it completely applies to Gariele Colangel. Born in Milan, he was bathed in fashion during his youth. While his father is an owner of a fur company, he learned the process of “making fashion” when he was little. Although he never intended to become a designer, a design competition that he never wanted to win earned him a year of fashion related course for free and an internship in Versace.

After he finished his internship in Versace, his experience opened the gate of Roberto Cavalli’s Just Cavalli. In addition, he became the art director of Amuleti J not long after he joined Just Cavalli making him the fastest rising star of fashion. While he won the “Who is Next” competition that gathered more attentions upon him, he has finally started his own brand with the help of his father in 2008.

Even though he has the help from his family, his approved skills on design also earned him an outstanding fame in fashion. As he is a lover of classic literature, he mused from his interest area every season. 2012’s SS “Photo-Paintings”, for example, caught the essence of the artist, Gerhard Richer’s, painting techniques. Even in 2013’s FW collections, the structural magic with Laurent Segretier’s photographical art’s support (muse), there are layers that combined minimalism and glamour together, making him find a balance between contrasts in the world of fashion.««

 

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