Geoffrey B. Small回歸手工觸覺體驗
Designer of the Week: Geoffrey B. Small


Geoffrey B. Small回收皮革鞋款。

Geoffrey B. Small回收皮革鞋款。

從根本問題發想的設計哲學,使Geoffrey B. Small對世上政治、環境危機極為敏感。從1992年首次踏上巴黎時裝周開始,他就以回收皮革、布料製作皮鞋與包款,響應Martin Margiela所帶起的回收時尚,至今回收再造都是品牌重要設計元素之一。秀場上,Geoffrey B. Small也屢屢以行為藝術帶出政治議題,如1994年秋冬的「Typical American Style」與1997年春夏的「American Casual Stlye」就暗諷入侵全世界的美國文化。近來Geoffrey B. Small更切合時事,如2012春夏的「Logomania」反核系列,以反核標誌取代大牌Monogram,並讓模特兒在秀末全體倒斃,揭露核能的致命本性。不料秀末僅2個月,就發生福島核電站事件,使系列有如警世預言。而2012年秋冬的「Occupy」系列,則響應「阿拉伯之春」與「佔領華爾街」活動,將會場布置成滿布軍警,劍拔弩張的抗議現場,在與溫暖的手工服裝對比下,散播人性必勝強權的信息。

Geoffrey B. Small 2012年秋冬系列響應政治運動。

Geoffrey B. Small 2012年秋冬系列響應政治運動。

「倒行逆施」對抗主流市場
在屢屢以服裝及秀場在巴黎發聲的同時,Geoffrey B. Small仍極力避免與時尚工業體系掛勾。20年來,品牌拒絕了所有投資者及公關,並始終將產量保持在可親自監督的範圍內。「所有人都在擴張生產線與經銷網,而我們近年來正在縮編。」Geoffrey B. Small表示,除了將全球經銷點從25個縮減到了如今的10個以下,更將每件單品的產量從數十件降到3至5件。「在英國和日本的人們自然需要不同的衣服,為此我會針對每個經銷商的特殊要求,個別製作單品。」Geoffrey B. Small說道。

Geoffrey B. Small 2012年春夏,為日本精品店製作的特別系列。

Geoffrey B. Small 2012年春夏,為日本精品店製作的特別系列。

此時「逃生門」又傳來緊促的叩門聲,這次走進來的是日本精品店Minority Rev的兩位買家,在與Geoffrey B. Small短暫寒暄後,就一面試穿單品、提出問題,一面用攝影機錄了起來。「這是訓練店員介紹商品的影片,」Geoffrey B. Small解釋道,「如此店員才能向顧客傳達這些服裝的價值。我希望能和精品店發展出延續數十年的緊密關係,而不是只管出貨的供貨者。」

為讓顧客長久穿著,Geoffrey B. Small服裝皆留有2.5公分的修改用縫份。

為讓顧客長久穿著,Geoffrey B. Small服裝皆留有2.5公分的修改用縫份。

為了傳承自給自足的手工技術,Geoffrey B. Small至今仍與4名師傅一同親手製作服裝,「我希望服裝能把信息傳達出去,讓更多人響應能永續生存的生活方式,我也時常作教學與培訓的工作,但如今有耐心學習,並付出時間與精力的年輕人太少了。」他表示,「但無論如何,我們都必續繼續走下去,保護手工血脈不斷絕。」««

»»A unique figure in fashion, Geoffrey B. Small has successfully shown in Paris for the past 20 years, earning acknowledgement from both mainstream and avant-garde designers with his highly conceptual clothing. Despite being responsible for pioneering the current Napoleonic wave as well as forerunning the concept of “Reduce, reuse, recycle” since his first Paris show in the 1990s, his name is still known by far too many and his clothing remains a privilege for those who understand fashion in depth.

Insisting that clothing should be a tactile rather than visual experience, Geoffrey B. Small dedicated the effort that other designers put to visual extravagance, to his fabrics, lining and details. Collaborating with some of the world’s top textile mills such as Fratelli Piacenza for cashmere and Parisotto for cotton, Geoffrey B. Small develops each of his fabric for utmost enjoyment against the skin, combined with utmost attention to details such as handsewn buttonholes using real silk Bozzolo Reale Milano thread and horn button made by hand in Parma, a garment that fully reflects the wisdom of past generations is born.

The work of Geoffrey B. Small however, is not created out of nostalgia but like modern art, is a reflection of our current society. His Spring/Summer 2012 collection “Logomania”, revealed the danger of nuclear energy two months prior to the Fukushima incidents, which made the show seem like a latter day prophecy. The Fall/Winter 2012 collection “Occupy”, recognized the uprising against oppressive regimes and multinational corporations and, demonstrated Geoffrey B. Small’s continuous lead in ethically conscious fashion design.««

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