Givenchy留人 Riccardo Tisci續約3年
Riccardo Tisci Stays in Givenchy


Riccardo Tisci(左前一)續留Givenchy,圖為美版〈Vogue〉內頁單元。

Riccardo Tisci(左前一)續留Givenchy,圖為美版〈Vogue〉內頁單元。

»»目前檯面重要品牌才歷經一波換將潮,也讓不少媒評揣測還有哪位設計師按耐不住現況,極想跳脫現處藩籬,另謀更開闊視野。Nicolas Ghesquière掛冠離去Balenciaga,Alexander Wang黑馬竄起;Hedi Slimane入主Saint Laurent Paris,Christopher Kane得PPR集團庇佑,大財主進駐有望拓展全球商機,連失去舞台的John Galliano,也另謀紐約搏生路,而Lanvin的Alber Elbaz更穩穩地掌控品牌大局,相對觀望下來,Givenchy的Riccardo Tisci動向更顯生疑。

圖為Steven Klein為〈Interview〉雜誌拍攝Riccardo Tisci內頁單元。

圖為Steven Klein為〈Interview〉雜誌拍攝Riccardo Tisci內頁單元。

2005年擔任Givenchy設計師的Riccardo Tisci,跳脫了創始者Hubert de Givenchy,以及前任設計師John Galiiano、Alexander McQueen,走出Givenchy現今色彩,闇黑哥德主義與街頭摩登衝擊著經典形象,為Givenchy打出一片天。依稀記得2011秋冬男裝羅威納犬咆哮圖騰博得滿堂彩,讓Kanye West、Liv Tyler等名人為之瘋狂,更遑論裙搭褲的legging風潮,都讓人讚不絕口。尤其Riccardo Tisci接連為瑪丹娜設計演唱會舞台服造型,這位設計師名號響徹雲霄。

Riccardo Tisci(左)設計的Givenchy 2011秋冬男裝羅威納犬T恤,讓Liv Tyler(中)、Kanye West(右)等名人皆穿它公開亮相。

Riccardo Tisci(左)設計的Givenchy 2011秋冬男裝羅威納犬T恤,讓Liv Tyler(中)、Kanye West(右)等名人皆穿它公開亮相。

正當Dior辭去John Galliano,面臨設計總監缺時,即有謠傳Riccardo Tisci有望接任,畢竟循著過去Givenchy設計師傳統,每個到Givenchy歷練過的,必在他處更為發光發熱,可惜最後Raf Simons出線,Riccardo Tisci依舊待在原處。加上近來設計師版圖大震盪,以及傳出Givenchy取消2013春夏高訂公開辦秀,無不讓人懷疑Riccardo Tisci未來動向,不過根據可靠消息,Riccardo Tisci和Gienchy續約3年,當然品牌高層相對亦須端出一定牛肉,留住人才,至於內容為何,傳言是要讓Riccardo Tisci另闢副線系列,擴展新版圖。但是否為休閒T恤等平價系列,尚未得到官方親口證實,不過看那羅威納犬T恤那麼受歡迎,新副線系列未演先轟動,似乎已先累積一定人氣。««

Gienchy 2013秋冬男裝(左與中)、2013春夏女裝(右)每次都有Riccardo Tisci新點子。

Gienchy 2013秋冬男裝(左與中)、2013春夏女裝(右)每次都有Riccardo Tisci新點子。

»»While some of the fashion designers played a round of “Simon Said” where they switching from one brand to another, Givenchy’s decision on cancelling their fashion show for 2013 FW collection has led to doubting on Riccardo Tisci’s future might ending with a leave. As the news that Riccardo Tisci has committed to another three years as creative director of Givenchy, the rumor vanished with their collaboration contracts.

During the years of Riccardo Tisci works as Givenchy’s creative director, he led the brand walked its new path and also build his own reputation by designing performance costume for Madonna. According to sources, the brand has offered better price to keep Riccardo Tisci in Givenchy, such as expanding the brand’s secondary brand. ««

 

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