Jacqueline Durran 融古匯今大展角色魅力
Designer of the Week :Jacqueline Durran


Jacqueline Durran為電影「安娜.卡列尼娜」(Anna Karenina)服裝所繪製的設計手稿。

Jacqueline Durran為電影「安娜.卡列尼娜」(Anna Karenina)服裝所繪製的設計手稿。

»»奧斯卡入圍常客英國戲服設計師Jacqueline Durran的設計才華乃眾所公認,以「傲慢與偏見」(Pride & Prejudice)、「贖罪」(Atonement)和「安娜.卡列尼娜」(Anna Karenina)的服裝設計三度獲得奧斯卡最佳服裝設計提名的殊榮就是最好的例證,其設計戲服突顯角色性格與襯托戲劇時代背景的功力更是首屈一指,出神入化的服裝符碼的運用、重視演員溝通與異年代融合元素與都是讓她能夠揚名國際的關鍵原因。

Keira Knightley(左)相當珍惜喜愛Jacqueline Durran所設計的服裝以及她的敬業態度。

Keira Knightley(左)相當珍惜喜愛Jacqueline Durran所設計的服裝以及她的敬業態度。

Jacqueline Durran所締造的經典戲服不勝枚舉,但其中最受讚譽的要屬電影「贖罪」當中的翡翠綠色經典長裙,這件以真絲綢緞作為面料的長裙之所以大受好評的原因,在於其充分反映其角色在場景中的性格。原著小說作者Ian McEwan花費大篇幅的文字,形容女主角挑選參加晚宴禮服的心思,而Jacqueline Durran所設計彷若流水般的飄逸長裙,適恰地反映出主角那柔情似水卻又變換不定的心情。這件戲服雖然最終沒有為她贏得一座奧斯卡,但是在學生舞會市場中所帶起的模仿風潮,也是另一種正面的肯定。她在「安娜.卡列尼娜」系列戲服就是歐洲貴族生活的畫卷翻版,其中所締造的時代美感,除了奧斯卡電影評審青睞她的設計之外,也讓Banana Republic以其為發想,推出以安娜.卡列尼娜為靈感的系列服裝,請到Jacqueline Durran作為設計顧問,讓這戲服巧手的設計也能走下舞台,住進一般百姓家。

Jacqueline Durran所設計的經典綠色長禮服,左為手稿,又為女主角穿著時的劇照。

Jacqueline Durran所設計的經典綠色長禮服,左為手稿,又為女主角穿著時的劇照。

戲劇服裝設計除了需要符合演員與時代背景之外,服裝所隱含的劇情符碼也是Jacqueline Durran創作中精心考量的元素。例如她在「安娜.卡列尼娜」為女主角所設計的戲服,為暗喻女主角可能永遠無法融入上流社會的情境,在舞會禮服上便讓她穿上黑色晚禮服,而環繞在她身邊的其他25位舞者皆穿著相同款式,但卻不同有彩度顏色的禮服,以純黑將女主角孤立。諸如此類的表現手法,若能細心觀察,觀眾將能夠發現許多值得令人玩味之處。

Jacqueline Durran於「安娜.卡列尼娜」片中穿著黑色禮服暗示與上流社會的格格不入。

Jacqueline Durran於「安娜.卡列尼娜」片中穿著黑色禮服暗示與上流社會的格格不入。

Jacqueline Durran的戲服通常都能由劇本背景時代擷取元素,再添加自己當代的審美標準,因此能夠傳神地形塑出時代氛圍,又能引起21世紀觀眾對於戲服的共鳴。Jacqueline Durran所設計的經典戲服背景多出於百年前的風華時代,在大部分人認為戲劇服裝就應該「能多真就多真」的情況下,她卻認為並不一定要完全仿真才是好的。她認為,現代和古代的服裝之間的鴻溝並沒有那麼大。無論戲服設計師再怎麼完全專心一意地仿製創造某個時代的服裝設計,無論設計師如何極力抵抗當代時尚潮流的影響,所設計出來的作品始終會和現代相互關照。因為設計師的眼光和訓練會不由自主地引導設計走向,無法避免地會從當代審美眼光設計出好看的樣貌。與其強硬地遵循古法,倒不如以不違背其精神的態度,為電影設計出個符合主旨精神的戲服。

Jacqueline Durran設計「傲慢與偏見」戲服中具有歷史感及現代美感。

Jacqueline Durran設計「傲慢與偏見」戲服中具有歷史感及現代美感。

無須多餘的贅字言語,當角色現身於銀幕時,Jacqueline Durran的服裝就已經為電影與角色舖陳了第一句台詞。雖然設計師本人已經對得獎與否表示淡定的態度,我們都衷心祝福這位有才的服裝設計師能在奧斯卡拿下大獎。««


關於Jacqueline Durran戲服創作
Jacqueline Durran幾乎一年都要打造一齣電影戲服,下列為近期經典電影參考
2013 電影「The Double(暫譯:雙重人格)後製中
2012電影「安娜.卡列尼娜」(Anna Karenina
2009電影「魔法保姆麥克菲」(Nanny McPhee and the Big Bang
2007電影「贖罪」(Atonement )
2005電影「傲慢與偏見」(Pride & Prejudice)


»»The Oscar nominated Jacqueline Durren is one of the hottest costume designer who got her fame from collaborating with Keira Knightley and Joe Wright. For she is nominated three times, Pride & Prejudice, Atonement, and Anna Karenina, this year might be the year of her winning one.

Born in England, she was graduated from Royal College of Art in 1996. While she started with her costume designing career as early as 2002’s All or Nothing, she has been following the rate of one movie per year, making her 25% rate of Academy nomination.

As she follows the need of directors, she loves to communicate with the actor/actress before she starts her sketch. “When they told me ‘this might not work’, I will listen to their opinion and rethink about my design.”

Her most famous costume is the green gown from Atonement. For it is an important piece that the writer, Ian McEwan, spent pages to describe the glamour of the heroine, the dress is a mirror that reflected the characters of Keira Knightley’s role. Although the long airy dress did not win her the little goldman of Academy Award, this dress did earned her a great honor to display her work in the Victoria & Albert Museum as the top 100 most influential Hollywood costumes.

The costumes of Anna Karenina are also her work of pride. While exquisite and influential, the Banana Republic has unveil the collection that tribute to the movie, making Jacqueline Durren as design advisor. To her, every little details of costume have greater meanings. For example, the scene of the ball has 25 different dancers dressing in one unique costume while Anna Karenina dressed in black, hinting the great isolation of her.

Although many costume designers loves to create from the history of fashion. Jacqueline Durren sticks with the old elements. For she thinks reality connects more than creation with the audiences, her insists did not only build her great portfolio, but also earned her honors in many different areas.  ««

 

推到Facebook臉書!把這篇文章貼到twitter分享到微博!手機版網站