Josef Albers色彩論 牽動時尚幾何美學邏輯
Josef Albers Expands the Imagination of Color Using


Josef Albers的《色彩的交互作用》書籍影響後世對色彩的研究看法,耶魯大學特在去年50周年推出app以茲紀念。(轉載自Yale Press)

依循《色彩的交互作用》,Josef Albers能將色彩活化,主要秘訣在於幾何構造排列;人類視覺很有趣,常因線條邏輯組合不同,產生空間錯亂假想,再因不同顏色順序,又有新思維出現,例如,明明只是長條紋位置由左往右移動,換了新色,那構圖氛圍便截然不同,甚至同樣的幾何構造,因選色迥異,造成的視差想像卻是天差地別。就因Josef Albers色彩幾何的邏輯推演,開啟了大家對幾何抽象與歐普藝術更多發揮彈性,也促成時尚與設計爭相沿用。

Josef Albers認為在不同幾何構造下,填註不同顏色會產生不同視覺想像,空間立體感也隨之迥異。

Josef Albers認為在不同幾何構造下,填註不同顏色會產生不同視覺想像,空間立體感也隨之迥異。

設計師Reed Krakoff與菲利浦收藏博物館合作,針對美國藝術大師菁英展,特別設計藝術家托特包,延用當代藝術家Alexander Calder、Kenneth Noland、Gene Davis與Josef Albers創意精神,描繪成托特包圖騰,Josef Albers最知名的矩形色塊,最為耀眼顯目。而伸展台前,Bottega Veneta 2011秋冬女裝詮釋了Josef Albers色彩運用論點,J. Mendel則參考Josef Albers於1926年繪製的「Upward」,密集長方形因錯落的著色,營造出大方塊視覺想像,將其轉移到2012春夏女裝身上,同季還有Diane von Furstenberg,針對色塊矩形組合的秩序性剪裁,提出另一番詮釋。

J. Mendel 2012春夏(中與右)靈感源自Josef Albers作品「Upward」。

J. Mendel 2012春夏(中與右)靈感源自Josef Albers作品「Upward」。

James Long 2013春夏男裝大秀Josef Albers幾何色彩,這讓設計師本人都覺那季靈感顯然和過去大相逕庭,設計師James Long提到過去從未深入採用幾何圖騰作為季度發表,但當他看過Josef Albers創作後,引起對幾何的興趣,嘗試在基本白襯衫和針織毛料摻入幾何漸層線條,實驗不同布料材質下,幾何瑰麗紋路亦有不同質感層次。Hardy Amies 2013秋冬男裝帶來薩維爾訂製精神,設計師Claire Malcolm特別提醒其雖然使用大量蘇格蘭紋顯示英倫特有標籤,但系列主題其實有意向包浩斯一絲不苟精神致敬,而來自包浩斯學校Josef Albers和妻子Anni Albers提倡的塊狀幾何,正好供予Claire Malcolm靈感。

James Long 2013春夏(左與中)和Hardy Amies 2013秋冬男裝(右)各自緬懷Josef Albers成就。

James Long 2013春夏(左與中)和Hardy Amies 2013秋冬男裝(右)各自緬懷Josef Albers成就。

Roksanda Ilincic 2013春夏女裝不偌James Long用材質織品賞析Josef Albers,Roksanda Ilincic實驗起色塊的邏輯思考,領子、襯衫或衣袖,被分屬成塊狀單位,單純注入不同顏色來強化視覺。而設計師似乎對Josef Albers極為崇拜,因2014早春,與Josef Albers基金會聯名推出迷你系列,共有10種款式,每款都將這位當代藝術教育家的色塊組合概念詮釋到位,於弗里茲藝術博覽會期間發表,並可在Net-A-Porter線上購買。

Roksanda Ilincic 2013春夏女裝(左)及2014早春和Josef Albers基金會聯名系列(中與右),展露設計師對色彩幾何有多熱中。

Roksanda Ilincic 2013春夏女裝(左)及2014早春和Josef Albers基金會聯名系列(中與右),展露設計師對色彩幾何有多熱中。

時尚對幾何色彩應用在剪裁輪廓,已是再熟悉不過的手法,或許年輕世代習以為常,但莫忘背後的理論基礎少不了Josef Albers,終其一生執掌教條教育著設計學院的學子們,而伴隨Josef Albers本人在玻璃工藝、雕塑、家具設計和建築繪畫等多元藝術軌道,溫和地反芻在新創作中,提出對色彩幾何的新註解。««

設計師Reed Krakoff與菲利浦收藏博物館合作的限定托特包,其中一款靈感就是源自Josef Albers。

設計師Reed Krakoff與菲利浦收藏博物館合作的限定托特包,其中一款靈感就是源自Josef Albers。

»» The “Square Man” Josef Albers is a German born American artist who formed some of the most influential theories that dominated the art and design world. Josef Albers started as a teacher in Berlin and began his art life ever since. In the 20s, he went into Bauhaus for further studies. After the Nazi raising, Josef Albers and his wife moved to California to continue teaching in the Black Moutain College and started his famous “Homage to the Square” series. Other of his famed works include the interior design for the Graduate Center in Harvard in 1958, the Two Portals in Time-Life Building in 1961 and the Manhattan statue in Pan Am Building in 1963. These examples greatly reveal the artist’s solid concepts in geometry. 

The book “Interaction of Color” is the essence of Josef Albers’s work. In a sense, it teaches people how to use color as elements for innovative designs and expands the possibility of Op arts and abstract art. His theory has brought so many inspiration to fashion designers. Reed Krakoff and Philip Museum worked for a collaboration in which he designed tote bags based on Josef Albers and other artists’ works. Bottega Veneta 2001 FW women collection concluded the imagination inspired by “Upward” in 1926. James Long 2013 SS menswear was the first time the designer used geometric concepts. Hardy Amies 2013 FW men collection gave the designer’s salute to the Bauhaus spirit. Josef Albers’ theories supports the fashion designing in terms of silhouettes, cutting and the color use. Though people might not notice, his great dedication echoes.«« 

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