Maxime Simoens 幾何世界的優等生
Designer of the Week: Maxime Simoens


實在難以想像,那年,Maxime Simoens只有26歲,有媒體即拿他和已故聖羅蘭先生相比,因為聖羅蘭先生當初接任Dior時,才是19歲的年輕小伙子,能力備受質疑。這位帶著粗框眼鏡的大男孩,在靦腆笑容背後卻藏不住才華洋溢的耀眼光芒,果不其然,同年10月法國老牌Leonard就高調宣布Maxime Simoens將接替前設計師Veronique Leroy的位置,成為該牌創意總監。Maxime Simoens也沒令人失望,短時間內便為Leonard設計一系列推陳出新的大膽設計,在2012秋冬系列運用黑、紅、金色,無論在黑色緞布上以純手工縫製金色繡花、或是在洋裝摻入東方元素,顛覆了該品牌的舊有印象,打造出濃厚且高貴的東方搖滾風格。

Leonard 2012秋冬系列。

Leonard 2012秋冬系列。

原以為會獲得廣大好評,殊料沒一季,官方即發表聲明Maxime Simoens閃電請辭,一說設計師本人有可能跳槽Dior(當時尚未宣布由Raf Simons入主),一說老牌Leonard的形象在熟客間根深蒂固,難以撼動,不受老客戶青睞,使得Leonard快刀斬亂麻,火速換將。雖然閃電卸下包袱,幸運女神對其仍然眷顧,巴黎2013秋冬時裝周便傳來風聲,直指LVMH投資Maxime Simoens,無形助長品牌成長,從既有的高訂系列,順勢開發成衣與配件系列。

Maxime Simoens僅執掌一季Leonard,2012秋冬是處女秀也是絕響。

Maxime Simoens僅執掌一季Leonard,2012秋冬是處女秀也是絕響。

2013秋冬,Maxime Simoens以「天鵝湖」為靈感來源,除了加入芭蕾舞短裙和皮草元素,也加入了顏色的漸層渲染及混色處理;在設計上,則運用他一向擅長的幾何圖形與結構重組、材質混搭。仔細比較前幾季高訂,Maxime Simoens女人婀娜輪廓依舊未變,獨獨褪去衝突對立手法,捨棄誇張元素,看得到Maxime Simoens想要變得更成熟穩重,回到最基本的剪裁與面料運用。或許現在有LVMH集團在背後力挺,如虎添翼,接下來Maxime Simoens還得拿出更多市場實力讓LVMH覺得值回票價。««

Maxime Simoens 2013秋冬系列。

Maxime Simoens 2013秋冬系列。

»»When the news that LVMH has signed a deal with rising French couture label Maxime Simoens, offering the brand financial backing and strategic advice released, we knew that Maxime Simoens would soon surpassed the other young designers in fashion business from this year. Both his designing talent and fortune are the envy of others.

Born in France in 1984, Maxime Simoens was a movie fan who studied in cinema school and did part time job for 10 years in movie theatre. However, as he found that the movie productions were full of science and technology, he decided to convert to fashion world that allowed him to express himself in a concrete way.

After he graduated from Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne, he interned in many notable brands, such as Dior, Jean Paul Gaultier and Balenciaga. 2009 was the year he made huge progress in fashion. He not only announced his collection and won the prize in Festival International de Mode et de Photographie but also introduced his own brand to the public. Moreover due to the collaboration with costume designer in Gossip Girl Eric Daman in the drama made his fame world-known.

In his first spring and summer collection showed in 2011, his romance and modern infused into the signature geometric design, which won him lots of applause. Soon he became the creative director of French house Leonard and his reformation also added more modern elements into the brand. However he quit the job after only one season due to quitting rumor and loyal customer preference. Nevertheless, the fortunate goddess always granted her smile to him. Now with LVMH’s support, he could definitely bring his talent into full play.««

 

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