Nicholas Kirkwood榮獲BFC/Vogue設計師基金
Nicholas Kirkwood Won the Vogue Fund


Nicholas Kirkwood於今年首次推出男鞋系列。

Nicholas Kirkwood於今年首次推出男鞋系列。

»»第四屆BFC/Vogue設計師基金(BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund)獎項出爐,鞋履設計師Nicholas Kirkwood以黑馬之姿,擊敗強敵Mary Katrantzou、Peter Pilotto、Emilia Wickstead與Roksanda Ilincic,獲得20萬英鎊,折合台幣約900萬的資助金,成為獎項自2008年成立以來,首位「純配件設計師」身分的獲獎者。

出生英國,現年33歲的Nicholas Kirkwood畢業於中央聖馬丁學院(Central Saint Martins),1999年開啟與英國製帽大師Phillip Treacy長達5年的共事,他還與已逝時尚編輯 Isabella Blow往來密切。儘管三人的專業有別,但在時尚的大範疇下,兩人還是對Nicholas Kirkwood產生了影響,讓天馬行空的藝術性,獨到的時尚美學、創意兼具舒適度等特點,成為Nicholas Kirkwood鞋履作品的優勢。

Nicholas Kirkwood為其他設計師設計的鞋履作品。(由左至右:Rodarte 2011春夏、 Meadham Kirchhoff 2012春夏、 Peter Pilotto 2012春夏)

Nicholas Kirkwood為其他設計師設計的鞋履作品。(由左至右:Rodarte 2011春夏、 Meadham Kirchhoff 2012春夏、 Peter Pilotto 2012春夏)

2005年Nicholas Kirkwood創立了設計師同名品牌,幾年時間耕耘,就幸運獲得2008年英國時裝協會(British Fashion Council)頒發的施華洛世奇年度配件設計師大獎(Swarovski Emerging Talent for Accessories prize)。同時,在<Visionaire>、<V>雜誌創辦人Cecilia Dean引薦下,種下了Nicholas Kirkwood與Rodarte的合作契機,進而從2009春夏開始,一連多季為Rodarte設計女鞋,包含2009年秋冬的過膝長靴、2011春夏的青花瓷楔型鞋等,成為服裝外的另一焦點。最近的代表作,除了為Victoria’s Secret 2012年度大秀設計伸展台鞋款、Erden 2013早秋鞋履、首次推出了男鞋系列,還在去年由倫敦大舉進軍紐約市場,大大拓展了品牌版圖。

Nicholas Kirkwood(右)受到Cecilia Dean(左)的高度賞識。

Nicholas Kirkwood(右)受到Cecilia Dean(左)的高度賞識。

而能榮獲BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund獎項,除了對Nicholas Kirkwood是莫大的肯定,對品牌的發展也是莫大助力。讓人期待在資助金的支撐下,動輒萬元起跳的定價,有沒有可能增設親民的副線系列,造福品牌粉絲。又或是能追隨前任得獎者Christopher Kane的腳步,得到如PPR般規模的大企業資助,有朝一日成為屈指一數的國際性品牌。««

Nicholas Kirkwood為Victoria’s Secret 2012年度大秀所設計的鞋款。

Nicholas Kirkwood為Victoria’s Secret 2012年度大秀所設計的鞋款。

»»The winner of the fourth BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund is out. As the shoe designer Nicholas Kirkwood won over Mary Katrantzou, Peter Pilotto, Emilia Wickstead, and Roksanda Illincic, he will also receive 200,000 pounds for the fund.

Named the first accessory designer who won this fund, the 33 year old Nicholas Kirkwood was also graduated from Central Saint Martins. Start from 1999, he collaborated with Phillip Treacy while his roommate by the time, was Isabella Blow, the deceased fashion editor. Although there are great differences on fashion tastes between the three, the two famous influencers still lead the way of Nicholas Kirkwood’s design concept. Adapting the imagination, his fashion, art, and creativities is where he advances the others in the industry.

In 2005, Nicholas Kirkwood started his own brand. With 3 years of hard workings, he won the 2008 British Fashion Council’s Swarovski Emerging Talent for Accessories Prize. At the same time, under the introductions of Cecilia Dean, Nicholas Kirkwood started the collaboration with Rodarte, where he started to design Rodarte’s shoes since 2009. For the next several years, his shoes became additional focus points of the show.

For he won the award, there is no doubt the fans are looking forward to the new expansion on his brand. If he can follow the steps of Christopher Kane, the previous winner, we might see another group like PPR will invest to Nicholas Kirkwood’s works.««

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