Odile Gilbert 伸展台髮藝女王第一人
Stylist of the week: Odile Gilbert


Odile Gilbert擁有如此精湛髮藝,讓許多設計師都願意重用力捧。第一位合作密切的設計師就是John Galliano,1994年開始合作之後,她跟著設計師從同名品牌、Givenchy一路到Dior,同時間1996年Karl Lagerfeld也和她一起密切工作,無論是Chanel或是自己的品牌。不過她合作過最狂野的造型都是在Jean Paul Gaultier秀上,Odile Gilbert特別喜歡和他合作原因在於:「他總是希望在髮型上呈現獨特的幽默感。 」2011春夏高訂的多變mohawk頭、2013秋冬高訂的豹紋斑點都是令人印象深刻的戲劇性髮型,Odile Gilbert為Jean Paul Gaultier 1996秋冬女裝製作的禮帽造型假髮,還被列於紐約大都會美術館永久館藏。

Odile Gilbert特別喜歡和Jean Paul Gaultier合作創意髮型。(由左至右:Jean Paul Gaultier 1996秋冬、2013秋冬高訂、2011春夏高訂)

Odile Gilbert特別喜歡和Jean Paul Gaultier合作創意髮型。(由左至右:Jean Paul Gaultier 1996秋冬、2013秋冬高訂、2011春夏高訂)

不只是創意瘋狂的髮型,Odile Gilbert駕馭優雅的髮髻造型也極有天賦,Chanel 2000春夏高訂猶如繁花盛開的花朵、Jason Wu 2013秋冬女裝完美俐落的優雅髮髻、Catherine Malandrino 2010秋冬的黑網罩髮術、Monique Lhuillier 2011秋冬頂在前額的隨性浪漫蝴蝶結等,都是伸展台代表作。就如Alexander Wang所言,Odile Gilbert的髮型兼具藝術性與實用度,可以落實於日常生活中的伸展台髮型,她也照樣精通,3.1 Phillip Lim、Rachel Zoe、Zac Posen秀場上的看來完全不刻意的自然美,都不禁讓人想要叫她一聲大師。

髮髻造型也是Odile Gilbert的強項。(左:Catherine Malandrino 2010秋冬、右:Jason Wu 2013秋冬)

髮髻造型也是Odile Gilbert的強項。(左:Catherine Malandrino 2010秋冬、右:Jason Wu 2013秋冬)

 目前為止,Odile Gilbert最喜歡的代表作則是電影「凡爾賽拜金女」(Marie Antoinette)中的髮型創作。當時大才女導演 Sofia Coppola看到Odile Gilbert累積十年的作品集〈Odile Gilbert: Her Style 〉之後,立即致電邀請她加入團隊,而且只專屬負責飾演主角瑪麗皇后Kirsten Dunst的髮型。Odile Gilbert將傳統的盤髮造型,經由轉變加添些許現代元素,如染成粉紅色的髮絲配上鮮花等,為主角形象和電影本身增添更多粉嫩夢幻的想像。從帽飾造型、晚宴大包頭、居家隨興散漫的髮束,都可見得Odile Gilbert玩得有多開心,只是目前她沒有意願再接電影的髮型製作,因為同時準備電影造型和秀場、雜誌拍攝實在太累人,短期之內恐怕無緣在電影中再見她神奇髮藝。

Odile Gilbert為電影「凡爾賽拜金女」設計絕美造型。

Odile Gilbert為電影「凡爾賽拜金女」設計絕美造型。

2000年,Odile Gilbert終於自立門戶在巴黎開設l’atelier工作室,2001年甚至發表自己的髮飾產品系列Odile Gilbert Créations,其中她所設計的特殊髮夾大受歡迎,François Nars甚至說,除了日本的抹茶之外,世界上最喜歡的東西就屬Odile Gilbert的髮夾。並接連擔任許多髮藝品牌的專業顧問或是合作示範創意造型,如Kérastase、L’OREAL等。2006年受到法國文化部頒發藝術和文學騎士勳章(Chevalier des Arts et des Lettres),在美髮界是史無前例的第一人。

Odile Gilbert所設計實用又美麗的髮夾,受到專業人士的歡迎。

Odile Gilbert所設計實用又美麗的髮夾,受到專業人士的歡迎。

即使受到這麼多榮譽加持,獲得這麼多業界好評,Odile Gilbert自始至終都保持極為謙遜的態度,講到某場秀上的髮型創作,依舊像是剛畢業的學生初次與國際服裝大師合作一般,難掩興奮之情,呼應她給所有新手美髮師的建議一樣,「要熱愛自己的工作,還要善用想像力。」被問到最能夠讓她放鬆的享受時,竟然說是和助理一起去吃漢堡,慢慢沾上番茄醬吃薯條,享受美乃滋、芥末醬的滋味,因為工作時常常無法正常吃上一餐,連吃個三明治的時間都沒有。可見偉大的成就背後所需要付出的青春、心血、體力、腦細胞,絕非常人所能想像。讚嘆Odile Gilbert許多令人驚艷的作品之際,更佩服她一路走來的熱情不減與始終如一。««

Odile Gilbert為Chanel 2000春夏高訂設計的髮型。

Odile Gilbert為Chanel 2000春夏高訂設計的髮型。

»»If you run into Odile Gilbert, one the most famous hair stylists in fashion industry, on backstage, you may not recognize her due to her ordinary look and outfit. However, if you know that notable photographers and designers are so eager to work with her and even Karl Lagerfeld write preface for her book, that will give you more motive to remember the name and the face.

Odile Gilbert was born in Brittany, France and took hair training in the small city. When she became older, she moved to Paris in 1975 working with hair stylist Bruno Pittini in both his salon and studio, which gave her chances to know more celebrity clients. In 1982, she decided to chase her American dream moving to New York City with makeup artist François Nars.

In the beginning, she was extremely nervous not only because she was new comer but also she couldn’t speak English that well. Fortunately, her talent in hair styling and her hard work overcame difficulty and won recognition by photographers such as Richard Avedon, Herb Ritts, Irving Penn, Steven Klein, Peter Lindbergh and etc.

Odile Gilber’s sharp sense of feeling designer’s mood allowed her to create the ideal hair style that designer likes. From senior designer like John Galliano, Jean Paul Gaultier, Karl Lagerfeld to junior designer like 3.1 Phillip Lim, Rachel Zoe and Zac Posen, they were all her loyal fans. Even Sofia Coppola invited her to join movie Marie Antoinette team to create one of the kind style for the leading actress Kirsten Dunst. Due to her work and humble attitude, she deserves a crown as hair stylist queen.««

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