Palmer//Harding 襯衫的雙面情人
Designer of the Week: Palmer//Harding


致力發想襯衫各種可能與變形,是Palmer//Harding創立初衷,圖為2012秋冬系列。

致力發想襯衫各種可能與變形,是Palmer//Harding創立初衷,圖為2012秋冬系列。

»»法國的Anne Fontaine被封為襯衫女王,光襯衫款式超過上千樣,從前襟變化到多重造型領片,只為滿足女人從日常上班到夜生活的快速換裝,快速遊走正式與休閒。在英國,也有一對雙人設計師品牌 Palmer//Harding專攻襯衫,但不似Anne Fontaine的華麗變奏,反倒喜歡細微處的巧思變化,把賞裁縫做工的各種可能,運用乾淨的打褶訴說襯衫的極限美學。

Palmer//Harding以意識形態表達2012春夏概念。(轉載自Palmer//Harding官網)

創立品牌非一蹴可成,往往需要時間醞釀,更仰賴契機與運氣,尤其倫敦時尚圈人才濟濟,想要一飛沖天不以特殊性或前衛舉旗,恐行不通,對兩位來自中央聖馬丁學院的Levi Palmer與Matthew Harding來說,更是如此。想建立品牌,很早在心底有譜,卻遲遲未有動作,因為他們極欲和市場區隔,但又擔心設計出來的時裝過於小眾,太普通又怕被嫌沒特色,後來因學校畢業作品受到好評,打了一劑強心針,去年又獲得法國ANDAM時尚獎殊榮,並在英國NEWGEN支持下,終於讓他們覺得時機成熟,可以跟大家好好介紹倫敦新銳品牌Palmer//Harding。

 Palmer//Harding設計師Levi Palmer(左)與Matthew Harding(右)表示Ingar Krauss的黑白攝影對他倆創作有巨大影響。

Palmer//Harding設計師Levi Palmer(左)與Matthew Harding(右)表示Ingar Krauss的黑白攝影對他倆創作有巨大影響。

Levi Palmer,現年30歲,標準美國德州小孩,笑稱對時尚的熱衷可以從9歲自行改裝母親的骨董衣說起,在達拉斯學習打版及女裝設計,直到2005年才起身前往倫敦中央聖馬丁繼續進修男裝課程,在他創作概念中,不時流露美式天性。反觀相差3歲的Matthew Harding,則是道地的倫敦人,學碩士都在中央聖馬丁學院完成,學的盡是女裝設計,2007年兩人初次認識,真正熟識相互砥礪卻是近一二年的事了,也從那時開始,兩人興起了創立品牌念頭。至於品牌方向,雙方篤定地表示要一口氣利用彼此對男女裝熟練技藝,同時發表男女裝系列,從最簡單基本款的襯衫下手,挖掘簡單中的不思議設計。

左至右依序為Palmer//Harding 2013春夏、2012秋冬與2012春夏系列,分別採用軟木材質混搭、抓皺的各種力道來變化襯衫。

左至右依序為Palmer//Harding 2013春夏、2012秋冬與2012春夏系列,分別採用軟木材質混搭、抓皺的各種力道來變化襯衫。

平常人定會在心中打個問號,質疑襯衫能有什麼層次表現,有過於普通平凡的刻板印象,對新品牌而言,似乎有些冒險。但Levi Palmer與Matthew Harding異口同聲解釋最實穿的襯衫可以透過材質、打褶抓皺與破格表現,變化多種款式,可以玩的面向實在太多了。他們還提到Palmer//Harding不愛藉由科技素材或大秀誇張技法當花招,迎合媒體焦點,喜歡從結構、細節調整來凸顯質感;回憶剛初創品牌時,兩人曾翻找了將近300多種棉花布料,只為了找尋合適的襯衫材質,可見設計師們對襯衫製作極其用心。另外好比是領口型態,Palmer//Harding 2013春夏嘗試以軟木素材修飾純白襯衫,無論是整片領口或邊線縫绗,讓男裝層次多了起來,女裝則仿效流蘇皮革編織作法,配合著開叉抓皺,有新的表情,甚至是今年秋冬,玩起抽繩與不同厚薄度織品的打褶處理,小小領口有各種驚喜。

 Palmer//Harding的襯衫輪廓大致底定,但細節多變,好比是領口運用抽繩、打褶與軟木拼接材質,讓單調的領口變得活潑。

Palmer//Harding的襯衫輪廓大致底定,但細節多變,好比是領口運用抽繩、打褶與軟木拼接材質,讓單調的領口變得活潑。

Levi Palmer偏向浪漫與注重線條的律動感,Matthew Harding喜歡立體雕塑所營造的各種結構性挑戰,兩人一冷一熱、一剛一柔異常地契合,為Palmer//Harding襯衫設計帶來撞擊沉澱後的平衡美感。確實,Palmer//Harding用色絕對是乾淨俐落,2011秋冬甫出道的雕塑系列,試驗性誇張皺褶袖口令在場與會人士驚豔,然而2012春夏過後的Palmer//Harding,試驗色彩淡薄了,更加考量市場實穿性質,不過剪裁技法仍充滿巧思,透過密合度高的皺褶處理,強化襯衫背部邊褶褶線,讓素白襯衫結構更為立體有型,甚至運用縫绗技巧,令肩線變得更堅挺。對於襯衫的各種變形,Palmer//Harding每季端出不同菜色,贏得媒體與市場好評,對此,設計師們信心滿滿地宣示,他們絕非專做襯衫的設計公司,而是設計師品牌,襯衫只是他們的開端。««

Palmer//Harding 2012秋冬系列。(轉載自Palmer//Harding官網)


Palmer//Harding小檔案
由設計師Levi PalmerMatthew Harding2011年創立,以襯衫設計為主。系列商品可在波士頓Louis、芝加哥Ikram、達拉斯Forty Five Ten與香港Joyce購買。
官網:http://palmerharding.4ormat.com


»»Creating a brand is not an easy task to achieve. The British dual designers, Levi Palmer and Matthew Harding, spend years to experience the taste of fashion, in order to find the exact moment to enter this market of competition.

Levi Palmer and Matthew Harding are both graduated from Central Saint Martin’s College of Art and Design. While they have been planning on creating a brand of their own, the timing has always been a huge problem of such process. As they want their products to be unique, they successfully earn the ANDAM award by last year. With the support of Great Britain’s NEWGEN, they finally created the Palmer//Harding.

Levi Palmer is a typical 30 year old Texasian. While he learned most of his skill from his old school in Dallas, he did not enter Saint Martin’s until 2005. Therefore, his design always has a taste of American style. On the other hand, Matthew Harding is a pure English gentleman. With both college and master degree earned in Saint Martin’s, he mastered his skill on women collections during his college years. As they’ve known each other since 2007, they decided to create their own brand based on shirts by starting with both men and women collection.

By using different material and design skills, Levi//Palmer seek for minimalism to grab public’s attention. Trace back to their own history, they spent loads of time to went through almost 300 different types of cloths for their perfect material. In their collections, people can always see their hard works in layers. Even in 2013 SS collection, the wooden material with white shirt cloths create an interesting layer to reach a different level of shirts.

As Levi Palmer is a picker on lines and shape, Matthew Harding love to play around with structure of the cloths. With such opposite points of view on design, they reach a balance. Through 2011 FW to 2012SS collection, there are changes happens frequently in each season. Until 2013SS collection, creativities are expressed through a simple item, shirts. For their creativities, designers tell the public, their ideas will never end.««

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