Pitti Uomo2016秋冬男裝總整理:Juun.J寬鬆當道 無性別態度定義服裝輪廓
Pitti Uomo 2016 AW Men’s Collection Trend Report


Juun.J擔任Pitti Uomo客座發表,2016秋冬男裝詮釋經典寬鬆輪廓。

Juun.J擔任Pitti Uomo客座發表,2016秋冬男裝詮釋經典寬鬆輪廓。

»»米蘭時裝周風風火火進行中,然而在那之前,向來被時尚界視為男裝風向指標之一的Pitti Uomo,則為我們帶來幾許亮點。像是今年受到邀請的客座品牌Juun.J和Marco de Vincenzo,還有國際羊毛商標大獎(International Woolmark Prize)男裝總決賽也在這裡宣布最終得主。儘管參與品牌不如米蘭和巴黎男裝周難得有名,但想知道男裝的最新發展,怎能不看Pitti Uomo。

來自印度的Suket Dhir(中)是本次國際羊毛商標男裝大獎得主。

來自印度的Suket Dhir(中)是本次國際羊毛商標男裝大獎得主。

Pitti Uomo第一件重要事,還是要看今年客座設計師的發表。接替去年Moschino的Jeremy Scott,韓國品牌Juun. J成為2016年男裝客座發表,這也是Pitti Uomo有史以來第一次邀請韓國設計師,由此可見Juun.J的創作才華備受肯定。向來以巴黎為發表場地的Juun.J,這次轉移陣地,推出他一貫的混和美學。融合軍裝、街頭和運動風格,這次更強調「無性別主義」。圓肩線條的繭型剪裁,搭配放大比例的外套,Juun.J的簽名風格不言可喻;另一方面,設計師在造型上,也同樣使用他偏好的合身混合寬鬆手法,以「後啟示錄」為主題,不管寬鬆外套及斗篷搭配緊身皮褲,或是合身長外套與寬褲的組合,都在在讓人看見Juun.J獨樹一格的設計概念。

Juun.J 2016秋冬男裝。

Juun.J 2016秋冬男裝。

轉移焦點到另一位客座設計師Marco de Vincenzo身上,身為女裝客座設計師,de Vincenzo這次沒有辦秀,而是將設計師善用色彩與集合線條的設計手法,轉以藝術展演的型態呈現。Marco de Vincenzo表示,在現在對設計師高度壓榨的產業環境中,每個設計師都在尋求一個自由的步調。藝術就是他在創意與商業之間,追求釋放的一個場域。在廢棄的戲院Teatro Niccolini中,設計師一共展出11套服裝,5套以皮革為主題,其餘6套服裝則是表現雷射切割的技術,在衣服上留下猶如螢光條紋的網格印花。

女裝客座發表,Marco de Vincenzo不辦秀,則是用展示會表達追求自由的理念。

女裝客座發表,Marco de Vincenzo不辦秀,則是用展示會表達追求自由的理念。

除了兩位客座發表外,日本服裝品牌White Mountaineering和Adidas Originals的聯名系列,也同樣吸睛。日本當紅潮流品牌White Mountaineering,由設計師相澤陽介(Yosuke Aizawa)主理,從Junya Watanabe旗下設計團隊出身,Aizawa將高端時尚的訓練,運用在自己喜歡的戶外風格上,打造出一個兼具機能與創意的潮流品牌;並成功為他帶來許多機能品牌的聯名。今年在Pitti Uomo便與運動品牌Adidas Originasls聯名合作,Aizawa在罩衫、軍裝外套和運動夾克的輪廓上,融入Adidas品牌經典的3白線,更特別的是,品牌也在現場以燈管打造一個個三角形標誌,在模特紛紛就定位時,隨著音樂移動成為特別的藝術裝置。

White Mountaineering與Adidas Originals聯名系列。(轉載自Adidas Originals)

Pitti Uomo主辦單位近年來,一直積極推動各種計畫,提供年輕設計師不一樣的舞台。去年他們就曾和時尚發展組織Ethical Fashion Initiative合作,邀請許多一眾非洲設計師登上Pitti Uomo舞台。今年又同樣請來包含Ikiré Jones、Lukhanyo Mdingi X Nicholas Coutts、U.Mi-1和AKJP等品牌在內的非洲設計師,瞄準一般歐美消費者對於非洲的想像,不少設計師從部落意象發想,然而他們也結合歐美時裝的流行輪廓,讓民俗風格轉變成摩登元素。再者,這些非洲設計師也找來因為非洲內戰而逃往義大利的難民擔任模特兒,而Pitti Uomo的主辦單位也希望能集結這些難民,為他們尋求在時尚產業工作的機會,不只是模特兒,甚至是紡織工廠等等工作。為時尚產業在華麗之外,更多了點人性關懷。««

Pitti Uomo以「非洲世代」(Generation Africa)為主題,二度邀請非洲設計師參加發表。(轉載自International Trade Centre)

»»Pitti Uomo, which’s considered one of the most important events for menswear labels, has recently come to the end and it has also brought us some surprising moments. As the guest designer this year, Korean label Juun.J has presented a collection featured genderless concept. Of this collection, designer has maintained his oversized cutting and styling preference on mixing tightness and looseness. 

Instead of presenting a complete collection, Marco de Vincenzo, guest designer for womenswear, has opened an art exhibition featured 5 pieces of leather-cut looks and 6 laser-cut looks. De Vincenzo explained that every designer nowadays is looking for an opportunity to be free. And for him, art is no doubt that balance between creativity and business.  

Besides, the collaboration of White Mountaineering and Adidas Originals is another spotlight. WM, directed by Yosuke Aizawa, has been famous in Japan cause of its mixture of high-end craftsmanship and outdoor concept and this time it has mixed the three white line, landmark of Adidas as detailed decoration on clothes. What’s more, it also created an installation composed by numbers of triangle light. 

Pitti Uomo has recently organized many projects to promote young designers. It teamed up with Ethical Fashion Initiative to invite African designers including Ikiré Jones, Lukhanyo Mdingi X Nicholas Coutts, U.Mi-1 and AKJP to present their collections. Plus, Pitti Uomo has also invited asylum seeks from Africa to model and work in fashion industry as textile labor.««

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