Trager Delaney 中性剪裁浪漫圖騰
Designer of the Week: Trager Delaney


Lowell Delaney解釋光為春夏定案,他們兩人花了不少時間溝通討論,找遍舊期雜誌與看過無數電視節目,終於拼湊一絲曙光;原本man味很重的男偶像們,將各自穿著抽絲剝繭出基本輪廓,讓Trager Delaney女孩們穿像Dennis Rodman運動衫線條,卻因絲質、柔軟的小羊羔皮與刺繡元素(Hama bead embroideries),潛藏了女人永不放棄的柔性優雅訴求。除此極力塑造中性剪裁,將男人常穿的熱褲造型,西裝外套全改做女性發想,也因為設計師們刻意挑選粉色質料,搭配鮮豔俏皮的綠葉印花,把女孩該有的活力面貌保留得當。

運動、中性剪裁因摻入刺繡與粉色調和,秉持住Trager Delaney 2013春夏女性特質。

運動、中性剪裁因摻入刺繡與粉色調和,秉持住Trager Delaney 2013春夏女性特質。

更重要的是Trager Delaney是充滿奢華卻不失休閒風格,所以Kim Trager提及他們嘗試將運動服飾常用的織品轉作其他奢華表現同時,更嘗試將絲取代運動T恤會用的棉花,讓時裝質感無論是視覺或觸感都更高檔,為此他們還跑到義大利找尋工廠合作,再回英國做最後加工處理。Kim Trager打趣道他喜歡的春夏系列是一套連身長裙,它結合運動內衣功能,鼓勵女性穿上它時可以無需穿內衣,因為反轉洋裝背面,洋裝鏤空挖背處理如同馬甲內衣扣環結構,尤其上身半透氣纖維布料,表達出Trager Delaney著重的舒適休閒感。

Trager Delaney 2013春夏講究舒適性與材質的創新運用,如洋裝背後頗有文章。

Trager Delaney 2013春夏講究舒適性與材質的創新運用,如洋裝背後頗有文章。

設計師們面對今年秋冬,一樣揮灑他們對過往回憶的拼組創意,試著描繪一位18歲的社會名流跟著父母親出席公開場合,不穿當今精品反選擇奶奶的骨董衣加以改造的性格故事。採用瑞士紡織Schoeller所提供的科技性織品,搭配上復古顏色,轉用拼接處理,有如大衣衣領是多種皮草複合拼組,迷彩運動衫則是植絨和滑順觸感布料拼製而成,2013秋冬Trager Delaney做了新嘗試。有媒體詢問設計師未來辦秀意願,Kim Trager兩人很異口同聲表示,辦秀未必是好事,他們要慢慢來,不急於每季都要愈做愈大,但一定要做到無論年輕女孩,或是像他們佩服身為建築設計師的Sophie Hicks,獨立、充滿知性特質的女人,全都能在Trager Delaney找到想穿的style。««

Trager Delaney 2013秋冬系列。

Trager Delaney 2013秋冬系列。

»»Every year countless designers in London tried to find their way to step in fashion industry. Emerging brand Trager Delaney is one of them, who have established their fame within only one year. Duo designers Kim Trager and Lowell Delaney, both Central Saint Martins graduate majored in knitting design, decided to establish the brand together due to their good understanding in taste, interest and almost everything.

In their first 2013 S/S collection, they extracted inspiration from memories in their young ages. Including Tony Hawk, Leonardo DiCaprio and NBA basketball player Dennis Rodman, all became their muses. They spent lots of time on outlining the theme of the season and finally decided to transform the neutral cut into femininity charm, combining sport element and comfortable texture in the creation. They collaborated with model friend Arizona Muse for their first catalog, which added more appeal to the promising brand.

In 2013 A/F collection, they tried to describe a story about a 18-year-old celebrity kid chose to wear grandma vintage clothing instead of modern and chic outfit. They mixed and matched different fabric in their collection to present the spirit of rebellion. However, they were not eager to hold fashion show to showcase their design. The designer would rather to take every step carefully and firmly so that the brand could grow on steady foundation.««

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