Uma Wang領銜中國時尚新勢力
Designer of the week: Uma Wang


王汁的2011年秋冬的針織作品征服了全世界的時尚媒體。

王汁的2011年秋冬的針織作品征服了全世界的時尚媒體。

»»2011年可說是中國設計師王汁(Uma Wang)突破的一年,不但拿下培養出Philip Lim等知名設計師的「Audi Progressive Designer Award」大獎;在時尚網站「thecorner.com」與《Vogue》合作的「The Vogue Talents Corner」中,獲選為五強之一;據說美版《Vogue》總編Anna Wintour更在中國之行特地登門拜訪,儼然要把王汁塑造為下一個明星設計師。然而比較少人知道的是,這位「新銳設計師」在時尚界早已有15年的資歷,並且在2005年就已推出個人品牌,如今與其說是一夕成名,倒不如說是默默耕耘後必然的成果。

以針織做為設計主軸的王汁,在10餘年前剛從上海東華大學畢業時,被當時的老闆指派到一家針織工廠「學習」,雖然工作環境惡劣,時常還得夜宿工廠,王汁卻從中學習到針織工藝的每一個環節,也養成她愛玩布料的習慣。當一般設計師在紙上談兵的同時,王汁卻表示「布料是她的設計語言」,工作時60%以上的時間都泡在工廠裡,對布料的表面質感、縮水率和水洗效果做實驗。

豐富的布料質感是王汁的最大強項。

豐富的布料質感是王汁的最大強項。

因此王汁從不滿足於一般的「奢華面料」,她經常把自己慣用的羊絨(Cashmere)材質與價格低廉的尼龍混紡,利用縮率不同所產生的皺摺,呈現豐富的材質性。在她的手中,原本給人矜貴印象的羊絨化身為隨意又好搭的單品,例如她雲朵般的毛衣,只要加上簡單的Legging就盡顯設計感;她也曾表示,她的羊絨不必拿去乾洗,反而是用洗衣機的手洗功能,最能洗出柔軟的質感。 在王汁最新的2012春夏系列中,更把觸角伸到輕盈的蠶絲、亞麻與環保棉上。最欣賞日本設計師山本耀司(Yohji Yamamoto)的她,以垂墜手法刻畫出富有存在感並極度洗練的線條,她厚實的色調、對細節無微不至的關注、與出人意表的開襟位置,讓作品從每個角度都帶給人不同的驚喜。本季她更做出更多新的嘗試,首創在羊絨上使用熱轉印技術,以期達到更細膩的印製效果;而品牌的男裝處女作,也由倫敦精品店Vertice獨家販售。

王汁2012春夏系列中,實驗了多樣的材質與印染手法。

王汁2012春夏系列中,實驗了多樣的材質與印染手法。

在英國中央聖馬丁深造的經驗,使王汁對中國與歐洲的時尚有著獨到的見解。她表示自己剛到歐洲時,時尚界的人因為她中國人的身分,對她的設計充滿質疑,認為中國只能生產出快速廉價的產品,但現在一整批設計師嶄露頭角,已扭轉了這個概念。當她在2011年造訪巴黎,迎接她的已不是好奇的媒體,而是各大精品店雪片般的訂單,證明王汁以在國際舞台上站穩腳跟。而對於後進的年輕設計師,她表示去歐洲深造是重要的經驗,不但能學到技術上的知識,並且能對整個產業有更深的了解,是她日後能夠成功的決定性因素。««

 

認識王汁(Uma Wang)
畢業於上海東華大學並曾在倫敦中央聖馬丁深造。
2005 品牌第一個系列在英國的PURE London展示發表
2010 榮獲上海時裝周2011春夏系列「最佳原創獎」
2010 榮獲北京中國服裝創意設計大賽「最佳設計師品牌」
2010 上海新天地開設品牌的首家專賣店
2011 義大利米蘭「THE ITALIAN VOGUE TALENTS」發表品牌2011年秋冬系列
2011 法國巴黎的「CHINA IN PARIS 」發表品牌品牌2011年秋冬系列
2011 榮獲「Audi Progressive Designer Award」

專賣店:
上海盧灣區馬當路245號2樓
電話:+86 21 3331 5109

北京朝陽區三里屯路11號NGA座05A
電話:+86 10 6436 1144

海外精品店:
VERTICE16 South Molton Street – London W1K 5QS(獨賣男裝)

DAAD DANTONE
Piazza S.Carlo2,Milano
電話:+39 0276 0160 45

A PIEDI NUDI NEL PARCO
via del Proconsolo 1/N 50122 Firenze Italy
電話:+39 0552 18099

2011 has definitely been a breakthrough year for Uma Wang, winning “Audi Progressive Designer Award”, chosen as of the 5 designers promoted by “the Vogue Talents Corner” and reportedly, visited personally by Anna Wintour are just a few of her accomplishments of the year. However, despite being dubbed as “upcoming” and “new”, Uma Wang is hardly a stranger to the fashion scene. Having acquired 10 years of experience prior to starting her own label in 2005, the designer’s success is hardly a surprise.

Having started her career with knitwear after graduating from the China Textile University, Uma Wang has build her designs around the tactile sensation of natural textiles, especially cashmere, which despite its luxurious image, is really a traditional fiber in China. As opposed to most designer who tend to work with their pen, Uma Wang spends more than half of her working hours in textile factories, experimenting with textures, shrinkage and distressing.

In her 2012 collection, Uma Wang has branched out to a wider range of fabrics including silk, linen and recycled cotton. Having Yohji Yamamoto as her most aspired designer, Uma Wang created the same kind of austere yet strong silhouette with her generous draping and earthy color palette. Her attention paid to the details and quirky openings also added surprise to her garments, making them equally, if not even more enjoyable from the back than the front.

Uma Wang has also entered menswear this season, teaming up with the London boutique Vertice to do a capsule collection, which would be exclusively available at Vertice.

 

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